M30 cam replacement "rocker arm loader"

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
mbb
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M30 cam replacement "rocker arm loader"

Post by mbb »

Anyone have one of the "rocker arm loaders" from Baum Tool or equivalent? I'm contemplating purchasing one of the Baums and wanted to get some feedback from someone who's changed a few cams on an M20 or M30. Seems like this would make it real EASY. Thanks, Mike
Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

I've been into a whole bunch of M30 heads and the closest I've been to one of them is grainy pics in the BMW manuals. It's an awful lot like work, but doable.
shocka
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Post by shocka »

Just do the slide the rockers off the cam style. I managed to do it in under 2 hrs my first time. I found a writeup somewhere maybe m535.org?
slammin_e28
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Post by slammin_e28 »

I just take the rockers out. If I'm in there, I'm gonna take the whole thing apart and put in new valve stem seals ,etc.
George
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Post by George »

Like this??

Image
slammin_e28
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Post by slammin_e28 »

George wrote:Like this??

Image
Oooohhhh!!! Do want!
mbb
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Location: Marina del Rey CA

Yes indeed

Post by mbb »

George,

Yeah, that's the idea. Tabs welded to a "girdle". Is someone making them out there? Thanks, Mike
George
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Re: Yes indeed

Post by George »

mbb wrote:George,

Yeah, that's the idea. Tabs welded to a "girdle". Is someone making them out there? Thanks, Mike
This is the factory part that I'm sure is long ago NLA.
Devinder
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Location: Berkeley, CA

Post by Devinder »

I have one of these. It works well even though it can be a bit awkward to use with 6 bolts and nuts to tighten progressively.

mbb, where are you? (And, who are you?) We might be able to work something out.
Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

George wrote:Like this??

Image
:shock:

Oh man, that's almost like cheating. I want one.

On the other hand, I talked to someone who had used one and they said it helped but wasn't all it was cracked up to be. :(
George
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Post by George »

Having it done it both with and without the tool, I'll take the tool every time.

Its a little nerve racking because you really think the valves are going to collide but just before the valves touch each other you realize that there is enough clearance to slide the cam right out.

Follow the factory instructions and you should be just fine.
George
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Post by George »

I broke a valve spring on the e34 on Friday. Pulled the head yesterday and spent today disassembling the head and timing components.

Time for a rebuild :( :? :) :D

Thought these pictures might be useful for reference:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
slammin_e28
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Post by slammin_e28 »

Bumping this.

Finally got my hands on one of these and went to use it.

Am I missing something? I got the tool on, but do I need other bolts to get it to go down? Headbolts are about 2.5" too short (mocked tool up on a loose head I had kicking around)

I can't seem to find the factory instructions for it either. Sure would make life so easy for me now.
mooseheadm5
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

Not just one of them, the one shown above.
Devinder
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Post by Devinder »

yes, head bolts are too short so you will need longer bolts. Allthread is a better option so you dont run out of threads on longer bolts.

You can also put it in a press.
slammin_e28
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Post by slammin_e28 »

Do we know the thread pitch and bolt size? Realoem isn't nice enough to list it.

I'm going to redesign this thing, better, but I need to use it ASAP.
tn535i
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Post by tn535i »

I must be missing something? If rebuilding the head what is the need for this tool? I've just moved the rockers off the valve stems as needed to remove pressure and start pulling everything. It would seem to me the only reason for this tool is to replace the cam without touching the rockers?
slammin_e28
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Post by slammin_e28 »

tn535i wrote:I must be missing something? If rebuilding the head what is the need for this tool? I've just moved the rockers off the valve stems as needed to remove pressure and start pulling everything. It would seem to me the only reason for this tool is to replace the cam without touching the rockers?
When the head is on the engine in the car, as in if the banjo bolt was loose and the front half of the cam is worn out and you don't want to pull the head off the engine.

Have to take everything forward of it apart, but it's much easier than taking the head off to remove the cam.
tn535i
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Post by tn535i »

OK but I didn't think the cam could be drawn all the way out with the head on the block still in the car. And IF the cam is worn from lack of lubrication it would be a bad idea to use the same worn rockers on a new cam. Hard for me to think of a situation where the cam and all the rockers are not coming our together. Not trying to start an arguement, just don't get the value or practical need for that tool.

On an engine with bearing caps over the cam though, something like that makes sense to hold everything down then evenly relax the spring tensions after removing the caps to get the cam out. Like an S38.
mooseheadm5
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

Using this tool allows you to pull the cam with the motor together, and yes you can get it out in the car (if you are clever.) From there, you release the tool and you can remove the rocker shafts with ease and replace any rockers you need to replace.
tn535i
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Post by tn535i »

I guess I've read so many times you can't get the rocker shafts or cams out in the car I believed it. Admit i have never tried it.
CanadianMiniFan
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Post by CanadianMiniFan »

this in car cleverness, does it involve removing the nuts of the engine mounts, and jacking up the engine? Please divulge these secrets!

warren
Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

mooseheadm5 wrote:Using this tool allows you to pull the cam with the motor together, and yes you can get it out in the car (if you are clever.) From there, you release the tool and you can remove the rocker shafts with ease and replace any rockers you need to replace.
No, you cannot remove the rocker shafts with ease. Even if clearances/head warp would allow it, the head bolts lock them in place.
mooseheadm5
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

I left that part out, but obviously you have to pull the head bolts for the rocker you are removing (or all the bolts on the side you are working on if you need the rears to come out.)
Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

And even then, while some do have the factory manual described threaded plugs, many I've seen just have pressed in plugs, meaning you either need to drive them out from the end or push/pull them while grabbing them from the side. While I would love that tool, I see it as more saving time than allowing a previously undoable job to be performed.
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