M30B35 Swap FAQ

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
Bimmerguy2002
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Post by Bimmerguy2002 »

Hey Brad, did all you modify was the C101 and the other plug inside the car coming off the harness?
Jean
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Post by Jean »

Here is my e34 5speed harness. 25 pin

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Brad D.
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Post by Brad D. »

I stand corrected. Thanks for the clarification.
Jean
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Post by Jean »

Big Bronze Rim wrote:I stand corrected. Thanks for the clarification.
I think we are both right on this one :) There must have been a cut off time when they switched from the 20 pin to the 25 pin. I just got back from a local yard where I pulled an m30b35 harness from another e34 (automatic) with a build date of 10/88 and it's got a 20 pin plug.

It does have some extra connectors near the ecu area, a 4 pin single row white plug, a black single row 4 pin, a 3 row 11 pin plug and a dual pin plug connected to what looks like a temp sensor INSIDE the area where ECU and relays are... I have no idea what that is....
jaydick
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Post by jaydick »

Big Bronze Rim wrote:
Kyle in NO wrote:Figure 1 should be the connector that plugs into your fuse box.
That's what I thought too at first but the fusebox plug (C101) is a 17 pin plug, not a 12 pin plug like that one.
Okay I am really confused. I thought that I would have to match up the leads from the 20 pin connector of the wire harness into the 17 pin interface from the fusebox? Isn't this what the wiring diagram at the beginning of the tech article points out? I removed the 20 pin male portion of the connector from a 1989 635csi so that I could interface the M30B35 engine wiring harness with the M30B34 fusebox.

Please let me know if I am interpreting this incorrectly.

Regards,

Jay
jaydick
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Wire harness & Pin Plug questions

Post by jaydick »

Big Bronze Rim wrote:I stand corrected. Thanks for the clarification.
Brad is your 635 and automatic or manual? for your 535 that you did the swap on is it manual or automatic transmission? The reason I ask is that my 20-pin harness for my swap came from a 89 635csi automatic while my 85 csi that is receiving the 89's engine is a manual trans.

Regards,

Jay
Jean
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Post by Jean »

Regarding the C101 pins 9 and 14. Which one feeds the speedo ?

Also, what are these plugs for, they are part of the 89 535i automatic harness. Can they be ignored, or does anything need to be 'jumpered' in order for an automatic harness to work as 5 speed?

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LA
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Location: Winchester TN

b35 swap

Post by LA »

Thanks to all - I have learned a lot here. I have been a proponent of the b35 swap for years, although I have always done an in frame rebuild and used b35 rods, pistons, head and used Metric Mechanic ported exhaust manifolds and their single pipe system.You avoid the oil pan & engine mount issues (as someone previously said) by staying with the block from your orig b34. It can be honed in place if you wrap the crank with newspaper and tape it sealed to keep metal particles off the bearing journals. I think it's important to use cast iron rings with the b35 pistins for good seating if you go with the in frame hone.

There was a VERY noticable improvement. :ohyeah: I just chipped the old motronic , but it looks like I missed the boat there. Based on consensus here, I'll be swapping to 1.3 DME, again, thanks to all!


Regards
lito
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Location: philippines

m30b35 swap/oil pan issue clearance in a 78 euro e24

Post by lito »

will the oilpan and oilpump of a m90 block fit an m30b35 block?
itsbrokeagain
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Location: Long Island NY

Post by itsbrokeagain »

i have been reading this thread over and over just to make sure I don't have an issue when I do my swap.

I recently acquired a later 735 M30B35 from a friend for 250 with all the accessories on it, but with a cut harness, so I have to go digging around for an E34 one.

Are they usually hard to find? I looked it up on real OEM and a brand new harness from an E34 manual is 600 something bucks, which to me is not really that expensive. Id almost rather have a brand new harness to eliminate 20 year old wiring (I just recently did a headgasket on an E34 535 and I was worried I might break the connectors or the wiring because it was so hard and brittle)

Other than that, a top end rebuild is the only thing I have planned, in addition to new belts and seals and what not. The motor only has 150k on it, but since it will be up on an engine stand for a few months, Im going to take the time out to do the timing chain and new guides, so this thing will run another 300k. I have 236k on the E28 I just bought, original everything, and doesnt even consume a drop of oil (pan gasket is starting to get wet tho, need to drop it and clean it up for the time being)

I really am surprised about cheap this swap really is to do, and the potential of easy power...
Bimmerguy2002
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Post by Bimmerguy2002 »

the harnesses arent that hard to find, you can use an automatic or manual harness. i can have a harness shipped to ya for 125 if interested.
You are correct though, it is a great swap, it has tons of torque and you hardly ever have to downshift going up hills and it was a motor meant for the chassis since its a direct bolt in.

Throw in an oil pan gasket and rear main seal which you are doing the rest of the stuff, get new hoses, and vacuum lines in addition :)
draztik
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Location: Long Island, NY

Post by draztik »

Bimmerguy2002 wrote:the harnesses arent that hard to find, you can use an automatic or manual harness. i can have a harness shipped to ya for 125 if interested.
You are correct though, it is a great swap, it has tons of torque and you hardly ever have to downshift going up hills and it was a motor meant for the chassis since its a direct bolt in.

Throw in an oil pan gasket and rear main seal which you are doing the rest of the stuff, get new hoses, and vacuum lines in addition :)
I bought my Super ETA harness for my m30b35 swap from Matt, it made life a lot easier. The Super ETA harness is virtually plug n play for this swap.
Brad D.
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Post by Brad D. »

I still prefer the look and cleanliness of an e34 harness to the super-e harness. While it take a bit more work at C101, the end result is really clean looking.
draztik
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Post by draztik »

Big Bronze Rim wrote:I still prefer the look and cleanliness of an e34 harness to the super-e harness. While it take a bit more work at C101, the end result is really clean looking.
I agree it looks much cleaner. I ended up creating a hybrid Super ETA/e34 harness as my end result. I wasn't happy with the look of the Super ETA harness either.

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Brad D.
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Post by Brad D. »

That does look very nice!
mooseheadm5
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

I am doing a Motronic 1.3 swap on a 3.0CS for someone and he has picked up an E34 535iA harness. I have done that swap before (it has been about 8 years, though,) but I had a manual harness and a B35. He is running a bored B30. Do you think it will be fine to use the auto harness (I'll probably strip it of unnecessary wires/connectors) or would it be easier to get a manual TPS and harness or a super eta harness? Does anyone know if the wiring box fits under the old log type manifold (I believe that it does, but it has been so long I don't remember.) Think there will be any issues with the B30? What happens if you run 1.3 in open loop? I suggested that if the ECU overfuels the car due to the smaller displacement that we could run a smaller (or adjustable) FPR or smaller injectors to compensate. Alternatively, we can go for a Miller MAF and WAR conversion if we are dissatisfied with the stock tune, but he doesn't want to deal with tuning it himself.

Suggestions?
Brad D.
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Post by Brad D. »

M1.3 gets pissed in open loop and goes into a limp mode. It has to have an o2 in place. As for the auto harness, you shouldn't have any issues as long as it's not an EML harness (if it is, LMK and I can help you make it work...I learned the hard way).
mooseheadm5
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

OK, I'll make sure that he knows that he must run an O2 sensor. Should not be a problem for him since an AFR gauge would be handy (he plans to make a drop in custom gauge panel and hold on to the old cluster.)
I know that it is not EML (I have the harness in my trunk.) If there is time in between work I'll see if we can snap pics of the conversion this Spring.
Bimmerguy2002
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Post by Bimmerguy2002 »

I am using no oxygen sensor in my 1.3 and it runs fine, just a little rich however.
Heathcliffe
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M30B34 to M30B35 swap in an 87 E24

Post by Heathcliffe »

Hi new to the forum, but have found it to be an excellent resource even though have a 635, I am looking for some knowledge and insight. I have an 87 E24 stick that I am swapping an M30B35 into. The donor motor is out of a 92 E34 stick. I am just looking for any insight ,foresight, tricks, problems etc so I can be as ready as possible when I finally get into the Project. Thanks in advance for any help.
Bimmerguy2002
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Post by Bimmerguy2002 »

Most of the info can be found in this thread for the most part, and will take some amount of good common sense and cross referencing. The best thing you can do is triple check everything you have before you start the swap so you dont have any hiccups or missing parts.
You can use your existing driveline because its already an m30, a E28 M5 flywheel/533i flywheel is a good upgrade to do while the motor is out, everything else can stay the same in that area.
Heathcliffe
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Post by Heathcliffe »

Forgot to mention that the engine has Ireland 10:1 pistons and a 284 Deg cam. Is this going to need a little more fuel delivery i.e. larger bore throttle body, 24lb injectors, MAF, etc? Also will motronic 1 be fine with this or is 1.3 or even some kind of aftermarket engine management going to make better or perhaps mandatory?
draztik
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Post by draztik »

Heathcliffe wrote:Forgot to mention that the engine has Ireland 10:1 pistons and a 284 Deg cam. Is this going to need a little more fuel delivery i.e. larger bore throttle body, 24lb injectors, MAF, etc? Also will motronic 1 be fine with this or is 1.3 or even some kind of aftermarket engine management going to make better or perhaps mandatory?
Those upgrades aren't necessary to run your motor. If you are going through the trouble swapping in a B35 it would be a waste not to use the newer 1.3 motronic. I suggest sticking with the motronic 1.3 and after you have the motor installed and running properly then you can start to think about stand alone engine management systems.
Brad D.
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Post by Brad D. »

To get the most out of that combination I would consider some form of non-stock engine management mandatory. I would convert to M1.3 and possibly do a MAF conversion and Miller W.A.R chip so you have the ability to tune for your specific parts combo.
Bimmerguy2002
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Post by Bimmerguy2002 »

This list should clear up just about every question of which parts you need, after using realoem and autohausaz for picture references, there should be no more excuses not to know which parts you need.



Air box-you can use the factory elbow going from the air flow meter, and the factory air box with valve cover support from the e28 535i if you do not wish to use the longer m30b35 air box (part number13711707727) and elbow (part number 13711707767) from the air flow meter to air box.
You can still use the boot that goes from the air box to the headlamp ducting (part number 12311710514) but you must cut it, and make a bracket for the air box to mount to the inner fender.

Air flow meter elbow-from m30b35 (part number 13711707767)

Air flow meter-same as the m30b34 air flow meter (part number 0280203027)

Air flow meter rubber isolators-m30b35 only (part number (13621707790) and clips.

Intake boot-m30b35 intake boot, non EML (part number 13541722847)

Valve cover breather hose-same as the m30b34 (part number 11151276485) with nipple on the side

Valve cover breather hose to intake bellows plastic elbow-same as m30b34 (part number13541272473)

Idle control valve-same as m30b34 (part number 0280140509)

Idle control valve vacuum tube-same as m30b34 (part number 13411710793). Use only the BMW brand hose, and not the contitech brand aftermarket hose since it is not reinforced.

Throttle body-the m30b35 throttle body (part number 13541726609) is the same as the m30b34 throttle body, the only difference is that there is

no nipple on the bottom of the throttle body. You cannot use the fly-by-wire throttle body from cars with EML.

Throttle position switch-if using an automatic m30b35 harness, use 6 pin variable TPS (part number 0280120406) from E34/E32, if using a manual harness, use m30b34 manual TPS or manual E34 TPS (part number 0280120302).

Intake manifold-from any m30b35 (part number11611717405), there are a few differences however, one being the big vacuum port for a brake booster vacuum hose, you will need to cap that off if the car you are putting it into was a 535i, and leave it alone for a 528e that runs with a vacuum booster. Also there were manifolds with one less vacuum nipple on the bottom, one goes to the valve cover breather tube, cabin temp sensor, fuel pressure regulator, the medium sized one is the purge valve, and big one is idle control valve.

Valve cover-the m30 valve covers are interchangeable but the b35 one (part number11121710974) is cleaned up quite a bit and has a designated bracket for the air flow meter.

Cylinder head-use any m30b35 cylinder head (part number 11121707150), but use the water neck at the back of the head (part number 11121253208) from the m30b34 instead of the block off cap.

Block-any m30b35 bottom end (part number 11111720650), preferrably one from a E24 with the b35, since they have the dual mounting bosses, or the earlier E32/E34 with the dual mounting bosses. Its not that big of a deal because Koala makes the mounts you need, and affordable too.
http://www.koalamotorsport.com/proddetail.asp?prod=m30l
http://www.koalamotorsport.com/proddetail.asp?prod=m30r

Oil pan-from b35 (part number 11131708345), since both b34 (part number 11131278878) and b35 pans fit, no reason to change them, unless you want to use the b34 alternator and power steering pump with mounting bracket. If you do want to change the pan to the m30b34 pan, then you will need the b34 oil pump pickup (part number 11411286468) instead of the m30b35's pump (part number 11411317100)

Motor mount arms-all from m30b34 (part number 11811175990 and 11811175591).

Motor mounts-m30b34 only (part number 11811175735)

Fuel injectors-same bosch19 lb/hr as m30b34 (part number 13641726988) or m30b35 lucas (part number 13641730292)

Fuel rail-m30b35 only (part number 13531719916). The FPR side uses a molded hose (part number 13311748689) which you must use or you have a kinked hose, you can just use a longer BMW line instead if you choose.

Fuel pressure regulator-same as m30b34, 3.0 bar FPR (part number 13531722040)

Purge valve-m30b35 only valve (part number 13901726705) that goes between the charcoal canister and intake manifold vacuum lines for emissions, which is held on by a rubber mount (part number 13901717292) and bracket (part number 13901717023).

Exhaust-you can use the stock e28 b35 exhaust, but the better choice is the b35 manifolds (part number 11621289275) and downpipes (part number 18301437358) which will need to be cut and welded at a different angle to clear the frame and sway bar. You can slip the b35 exhaust over the b34 exhaust once you get it under the car and bolted up.

Starter-the small case m30b35starter (part number 12411720664)is about half the weight of the large case m30b34 starter (part number 12411272150) and has the proper terminal connector for the 1.3 harness. The b34 starter will work, but the b35 starter is much easier to take out since you have a straight shot to the bolts.

Flywheel-use a single mass 19 lb 535i flywheel (part number 11221289244), or the 14 lb 533i/M5 flywheel (part number 11221271463)

Clutch-use e28 535i from sachs (part number 1861931033)

Pressure plate-use e28 535i from sachs (part number 3082147032)

Throwout bearing-use e28 535i from sachs (part number 3151231031)

Ignition wires-from m30b35 (part number 12121722253)

Ignition coil-you can use the m30b34/early m30b35 coil (part number 12131286087), but the m30b35 coil (part number 12131742925) is better

Distributor rotor-same as m30b34 (part number 12111734110)

Distributor cap-same as m30b34 (part number 12111725070)

Distributor dust shield-same as m30b34 (part number 12111288167)

Oxygen sensor-m30b35 oxygen sensor (part number 11781720537) if using the m30b35 wiring harness, super eta oxygen sensor (part number

11781714772) with an extension if using a super eta wiring harness.

Wiring harness-you can use a super eta harness (part number 12511714294) and just extend the 4 AFM wires, 3 TPS wires, 3 ICV wires, and oil pressure switch wire. The other option is to use a m30b35 1.3 harness (part number 12511724670) and use an adapter If you use the super eta harness, you must use the m30b34 oil level sender (part number 12611276183) since the m30b35's sender (part number 11131708345) uses a different connector.

ECU-179 dme from E32 and E34 (part number 12141748258)

Cooling hoses-use every hose from the e28 535i:
coolant hose: water pump to thermostat housing (part number 11531266459)
coolant hose: thermostat housing to water tee (part number 11531274210)
upper radiator hose (part number 11531276647)
lower radiator hose (part number 11531289859)
expansion tank hose to tee (part number 11531278529)
coolant hose: expansion tank breather (part number 17121119294)
coolant hose: breather hoe from expansion tank to breather pipe (part number 17121712136)
heater hose: inlet from cylinder head/heater core to heater valve (part number 64211363470)
heater hose: inlet from cylinder head to heater valve (part number 64211368714)
heater hose: outlet from heater core to thermostat housing/water tee (part number 64211368715

Water tee: distribution tee for cooling system, same as m30b34 (part number 11531272866)

Water pump: same as m30b34 (part number 11519070761)

Water pump pulley: m30b34 and later m30b35 share the same pulley (part number 11511706781) the early pulley (part number 11511271423) on the b35 is 14mm bigger

Thermostat housing-same as m30b34 (part number 11531268650 and 11531710959)

Thermostat-80C thermostat, same as m30b34 (part number 11531713040)

Fan clutch-use m30b34 only (part number 11521740962)

Clutch driven fan-use m30b34 only (part number 11521271846)

Engine temperature sensor to ECU-same as m30b34 (part number 13621709966)

Temperature sender to cluster-use 88 528e(part number 12621710512 )

Harmonic balancer-m30b35 only (part number 11231722723)

Crank trigger bracket-m30b35 only (part number 11141717127)

Crank trigger sensor-from m30b35 (part number 12141720853)

Crankshaft pulley-see accessories below

AC, power steering, and alternator-You can use your m30b34 power steering pump (part number 32411133969), 90A alternator (part number 12311466087), and AC compressor if you use the m30b34 mounting brackets (part number 12311708343 and 64521284953), adjusters, crankshaft pulley (part number 11211258274), and power steering belt (part number ), alternator belt (part number 11221706788), and AC belt (part number 64521711056).
You can use the m30b35 power steering pump (part number 32411141058), 140A alternator (part number 12311735706), AC compressor, mounting brackets (part number 12311707194 and 64521284953), adjusters, crankshaft pulley (part number 11231716270), and power steering belt (part number 11231709636), alternator belt (part number 11231706668), AC belt (part number 64521722371) from the m30b35, but you will have to do something to the lines for the AC, everything else will work and bolt up however.
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