Cause: NiCad batteries have lived a long enough life
Solution: Contact Steve Haygood, or your alternate parts source. ProgRama remanufactures cluster boards in addition to many other european used parts and has put together an excellent flash based board for our chassis'. Steve gets these at an excellent price (compared to the list )
Removal of existing instrument cluster:
- Start by disconnecting the battery -- this procedure will be risky with the power still in tact.
- Next go about removing the steering wheel. The 22mm nut can be difficult but this is a necessity to get the cluster out.
- To remove the wheel from the column, turn the key in the ignition to position 2 to release the wheel lock and pull the wheel directly back toward you (noting the orientation of the wheel for replacement.)
- After this, remove the two philips head screws located at the top of the instrument cluster. With these two screws you will be able to rotate the entire instrument cluster.
- This part is best with small, feminine hands -- rotate the cluster toward the passenger seat and peek behind the cluster, pull the black lock-tab on the white cable harness and release the white connector. At this time you can also release the blue connector by unlocking the black sliding gate on the driver side.
- Next, rotate the cluster the opposite way, with the front of the cluster facing as far out the driver door as possible. From here you will be able to repeat the first step for the blue and yellow connectors in that order. Also remove the ground and positive lines to the brake lining bulb.
- With these connectors released, you will be able to rock the cluster toward you and slide it out.
- Working through the next steps in a clean environment is definitely a plus -- avoid any dust possible, and have some microfiber towels on hand. On a flat, clean workbench, lay the cluster face-down on a towel. Remove the eight-philips head screws on the white backing panel. This will allow for the entire cluster board to slide directly back and out.
- Next we will remove the individual components, the center portion (fuel level, water temp, SI indicator and check panel indicator.)
- Start by removing the two 6mm nuts on the back of the white panel, to physically separate the board from the panel, apple gentle and steady force to the threaded studs -- this will release the prongs from the board. You can remove the panel and place it directly in the corresponding portion of the new cluster board.
- Next, removal of the tachometer, on the backside of the cluster board, behind the tach is located a locking clip which can be release with a flat-head screwdriver. With this clip released, the entire tach assembly will gently slide out. Place this unit into the new board.
- Now we can release the speedometer. In a similar fashion to the tach, the speedo is held in with a locking tab. With a jewelers flat-head screwdriver, find the lower left hand corner of the backside of the speedometer -- directly inside is the locking tab, which can be release by inserting the flat-head screwdriver. This will allow for the speedo to slide directly out and be installed in the new board.
- Finally, we can remove the misc. light bulbs and housings, also the black security chip which is located behind the old tach on the backside of the cluster board. Place the bulbs from the old board into the corresponding ports on the new board, using needle-nose pliers to turn and lock them into place.
- At this point, with the microfiber towel, you can clean up the face of the clusters, gently, gently, gently.
After cleaning any smudges, go about re-inserting the cluster board into instrument cluster housing and fastening the eight-philips head screws.
- With the proper installation of all the parts, you can now go about reinstalling the cluster through the reversal of the removal.