
Nice company.
Sorry I missed this question!Adam W in MN wrote:Bumping my questionAdam W in MN wrote:Looks great! Did you consider installing rear headrests while you were doing all the prep for the seating project, why or why not?
Your logic matches mine. You are a smart man.Adam W in MN wrote:Thanks Charlie. I did them on my e12 for that euro look that many of us are after, but then I started to admire the simple horizontal surface, unbroken by big head cushions, in standard e12 and e28 rear seats. I guess I want it to be configurable but absent that, I’ll probably hold off from rushing to add them to any future cars. Especially considering I almost never have rear seat passengers so I needed rear headrests.... why?
That’s just a small sample of my odd logic.
Congrats. Thanks. I'm sorry. I hope you remember more than I have.boomvader wrote:Charlie, finally finished reading up on all 3 of your build threads. Nice work! Thanks for documenting in such detail. I've learned a lot.
cek wrote: ↑Jun 08, 2018 10:47 AM Tuesday, I had just enough time to get about half the sound deadener in. This is harder work than I thought.
On Minerva I'm doing the spray on sound deadener (see @occoupe's E9 thread). But for this car, I was not prepared to do the prep work required to paint (and I suck at paint) the interior, and I was curious how this stuff works. I know there's some risk to using dyanamat-like product (it's possible for moisture to get under it), but I took care to ensure it was installed correctly.
I bought two brands of 80mil Dynamat clone on Amazon. Both are made in the CCCP. Far cheaper than Dynamat and the customer reviews were all very positive. As far as I can tell both products are the same except for sheet size and one has a logo.
This stuff comes in small sheets which worked well for the rear. I should have saved some of it for parts of the front.
On Amazon: Kilmat 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat
This stuff comes in big sheets which worked very well for the front part of the car.
On Amazon: Siless Sound Deadening mat 80mil 36 sqft - Sound Deadener Mat
It'll be interesting to see/hear how it works...
I would have gotten more done, but we had tickets to the opening night of Hunchback at the 5th Ave Theater. It was better than I thought it would be. I think they have a hit on their hands and y'all can expect to see this make it to Broadway. But what do I know about musicals... I mostly go because it's a great date with Julie.
Wednesday, and I mean almost all of Wednesday, was spent finishing the sound deadener and installing new foam.
Maytag Interior Upgrade by Tig, on Flickr
Maytag Interior Upgrade by Tig, on Flickr
Maytag Interior Upgrade by Tig, on Flickr
Maytag Interior Upgrade by Tig, on Flickr
The original, disgusting, Maytag Bearl Peige carpet was the 'new style' with attached foam. That foam is pretty thick in places (like almost 2" under the dead pedal). The new, georgous, Anthracite carpet is the 'old style' without foam. To make it fit you need to build up foam because the OE foam pieces are NLA. I bought this product based on recommendations. Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro:
Second Skin Insulation Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro MLV Mass Loaded Vinyl Closed Cell Foam Sound Deadener - 9 sqft Sheet
I bought 4 sheets. I only needed 3. See below for why you may need 4 if you do this.
I used the old carpet as a template.
I asked the company if gluing this stuff down was required. They said it is not. I chose not to glue it, except in a few places because I want it easily removable and I'm pretty sure it's not moving anywhere.
There's actually 3 layers of the stuff in places here. The middle layer is actually small pieces of scrap that I pieced together like a jigsaw puzzle to fill in the space around the heater duct.
On the passenger side, I just used the original foam from the original carpet as it had easily pulled away from the carpet. Fits perfectly. Also explains why 3 sheets of LLP was enough in my case.
The new carpet went in easy. I was able to insert additional foam under a few places to build up (especially the dead pedal) and it now feels OE under all parts of it. The center tunnel is a bit thicker than OE, but I not enough to impact how the sides reach the sills.
I did a test fit of the center console to ensure the thickness didn't impact anything. It is definitely tighter than OE, but the bolts all reach.
It really warms my heart to see this interior come together! I really hated that PB.
Next up... heaters...
I'm going to try that.athayer187 wrote: ↑Aug 24, 2020 5:49 AM Ground loop? Can you ground the head unit directly to the chassis?