Manual Transmission Fly Wheel 535is

[austinpancho69]

Hello,

I am looking for a flywheel that will fit my manual 1988 535is. The motor is origianl to the car. I am located in the Bay Area. The part number should be: 11221289244
So far, I have tried ECS, FCP, Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, Rock Auto, Ebay, Monument auto parts, BMW dealership, and a few pick and pulls.

Some background on the car:
This car was origianlly an automatic and I had it converted to manual. The shop, which did the work had difficulty finding an OEM flywheel and decided to use a lightweight flywheel. Since taking it back to the shop to remedy, they believe my worn out subframe bushings are the reason the car drives like it does. I am experiencing the following issues since the work was completed:

First gear is extremely difficult to get into once the vehicle is warmed up. I have tried to press the clutch multiple times and force it in, but it does not always work. This appears to happen only when the car is at a complete stop.
More often my car will continue to move forward if I have the clutch fully depressed and it is in gear. I have to press the brake to keep the car from moving.
There is a whining noise when I am taking off from a dead stop from the transmission.
The clutch release window is extremely small. When starting in first gear at a dead stop, it is difficult to get the car moving without extreme jerking, this is something I have never experienced in any other manual vehicle.
At times, the clutch pedal does not fully return back to its unreleased position. I need to use my foot to push it forward after switching gears.

After speaking with multiple shops, there has been a few debates, but the lightweight fly wheel feels like the most logical explanation.

Thank you in advanced for any help or recommendations.

[gaben]

Hey. I’m in the Bay Area as well.

This individual is in Pleasanton and is parting out his car.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=159476

Try to see the state of the flywheel/clutch assembly.

Hope this helps

[austinpancho69]

Hey. I’m in the Bay Area as well.

This individual is in Pleasanton and is parting out his car.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=159476

Try to see the state of the flywheel/clutch assembly.

Hope this helps

Hello,

Funny enough, I reached out already. He is trying to keep all manual components together for someone needing a full conversion.

Thank you though!

[gaben]

I’ll reach back out to you in a few months to see if you’re still in need of one. I was planning to do a clutch job in the next several weeks which includes upgrading to the IE lightweight flywheel.

Goodluck in the meantime

[south26]

I had the same problem after replacing a clutch. Turned out to be the clutch slave was having problems. And it was not bled enough.


Andy

[Bimmerguy2002]

Did you inspect for a broken clutch pedal bracket in addition to bleeding the hydraulic system? Friction disc installed correctly?
I have an e28 m5 flywheel that was resurfaced if needed but it doesnt sound like the flywheel is the issue. If you are using the 8lb JB racing flywheel it may sound like a bag of rocks when the clutch is pushed in.

[Spen]

I would consider Andy's (south26) reply.

The shop who did your work may have low experience with these cars and are avoiding repairing the work because in a sober moment would admit they don't know what's wrong.

Or maybe they're absolute expert (out of the womb) master mechanics who never make a mistake. When you look up God in the dictionary, their smiling faces greet you in a baseball card sized photo.

In my opinion, I prefer to back bleed the clutch system by getting as much fluid out as I can if its old and dingy, start getting fresh fluid through the slave bleeder, and once fresh fluid is likely mostly in the fluid line, close the bleeder on slave and remove slave from transmission and bleed slave backward by pushing the plunger carefully several times (let's say 10-15) with your hand and maybe a leather glove or a thick rag for palm protection.

That said I probably have a flywheel for you in excellent factory used condition (unlike me its got all its teeth) and the reference sensor pickup is also there in good shape, for $250 plus shipping if you want from Seattle. It is a standard single mass flywheel that is the same for a 1986-1988 535i/is as far as I know.

[austinpancho69]

I had the same problem after replacing a clutch. Turned out to be the clutch slave was having problems. And it was not bled enough.


Andy

Hello Andy,

The shop believed it was the clutch slave, as well. They stated they installed a new slave, bled it, and it still did not make any difference at all. They also flushed the transmission fluid while they were there.

Thank you.

[austinpancho69]

Did you inspect for a broken clutch pedal bracket in addition to bleeding the hydraulic system? Friction disc installed correctly?
I have an e28 m5 flywheel that was resurfaced if needed but it doesnt sound like the flywheel is the issue. If you are using the 8lb JB racing flywheel it may sound like a bag of rocks when the clutch is pushed in.

I did inspect the clutch pedal and no cracks are apparant. Unfortunately, I do not know the details of the flywheel that was installed. I do not hear the bag of rocks noise that you mentioned. Although, I do sometimes hear a squeaking noise when the clutch is depressed.
I assume an M5 and a 535i flywheel are the same?

Thank you.

[Bimmerguy2002]

Did you inspect for a broken clutch pedal bracket in addition to bleeding the hydraulic system? Friction disc installed correctly?
I have an e28 m5 flywheel that was resurfaced if needed but it doesnt sound like the flywheel is the issue. If you are using the 8lb JB racing flywheel it may sound like a bag of rocks when the clutch is pushed in.

I did inspect the clutch pedal and no cracks are apparant. Unfortunately, I do not know the details of the flywheel that was installed. I do not hear the bag of rocks noise that you mentioned. Although, I do sometimes hear a squeaking noise when the clutch is depressed.
I assume an M5 and a 535i flywheel are the same?

Thank you.

The 533i/m5 flywheel is just a factory lightened 535i flywheel, material shaved off the engine side.

The friction disk could be installed backwards, the same thing happened with my friends e36, he didnt know any better as he was winging it without help and you had to force it into gear. It could be installed correctly but something wrong with the mechanicals inside the tranny. I have been wrong once before though.

[Spen]

I'd be looking at the possibility of the clutch disc backwards, or the pivot pin on the throwout fork fell apart possibly.

Edit: some discs cannot be backwards but unsure about this one.

Getriebe Seite (sp/DE?) (Gearbox side) faces backwards to the gearbox, is printed on the disc itself.

[austinpancho69]

I'd be looking at the possibility of the clutch disc backwards, or the pivot pin on the throwout fork fell apart possibly.

Edit: some discs cannot be backwards but unsure about this one.

Getriebe Seite (sp/DE?) (Gearbox side) faces backwards to the gearbox, is printed on the disc itself.

I do not think the shop has too much experience with the e28 chassis nor e28 manual conversions, but they do have familiarity with e30s from what I could tell.
I may take you up on your flywheel offer. The comments from this forum have been overwhelmingly helpful and I want to ensure it is indeed the flywheel now that the discussion has opened up to other possibilities.

If the clutch disc was installed backwards, I would imagine that I would have constant engagement issues. Once the vehicle is in motion, it shifts smoothly into higher gears. The gears feel tight and precise so I am hoping it is not anything wrong with the tranny itself. Let me know your thoughts.

Thank you

[Mike W.]

That is not a flywheel problem. It does sound like a hydraulics problem. When my pedal bracket went really bad, it was going thru new clutch masters frequently, with high temps being a contributing factor. But the only time I've had the pedal go to the floor and stay there was with a cracked pedal bracket. Mine was cracked, which I could only see when I had it out and in the sun, but it was also bent somewhat. And even back then it wasn't the original bracket.

It's possible you have other clutch issues, but I'd do the pedal bracket first. And I'd lay money the flywheel isn't the problem.

[Bimmerguy2002]

That is not a flywheel problem. It does sound like a hydraulics problem. When my pedal bracket went really bad, it was going thru new clutch masters frequently, with high temps being a contributing factor. But the only time I've had the pedal go to the floor and stay there was with a cracked pedal bracket. Mine was cracked, which I could only see when I had it out and in the sun, but it was also bent somewhat. And even back then it wasn't the original bracket.

It's possible you have other clutch issues, but I'd do the pedal bracket first. And I'd lay money the flywheel isn't the problem.

That is what i was thinking, its sometimes impossible to see without an extra eye that has seen it too.

[Spen]

The pedal bracket is a good call. The crack should show clearly with a flashlight by where the MC mounts. I'd be delighted to sell the flywheel (resurfacing suggested -usually reasonable) but I've run them used before with no issues whatsoever. However I do not believe the flywheel is the issue unless its poorly sized. So yes, putting a factory flywheel should eliminate the possible issue but I doubt it'll fix it.

I once had an OEM m30 motronic flywheel w a missing tooth and I didn't catch it. A buddy did! Good eye. It made a funny sound when starting. It always started but with a clacky clacky sound. It wasn't a big issue but it certainly didn't sound normal.

[Mike W.]

The crack should show clearly with a flashlight by where the MC mounts.

On mine I was definitely looking for it, with a flashlight, but couldn't see it until I got it out into sunlight. And even then it was barely visible. Some have seen it flexing and opening wide, mine didn't do that.

[austinpancho69]

The crack should show clearly with a flashlight by where the MC mounts.

On mine I was definitely looking for it, with a flashlight, but couldn't see it until I got it out into sunlight. And even then it was barely visible. Some have seen it flexing and opening wide, mine didn't do that.

Where exactly should I be checking for cracks on the pedal assembly? Does it require removal or can I crawl under and use a flash light?

Thank you.

[Mike W.]

On mine it was at the 90 degree bend, front to back, above the M/C. I'd say search a bit though and look at the pedal bracket stiffener bracket, that thread alone might show a lot.

[Spen]

I have a cracked used loose pedal assembly that I can send photos but should be via signal app as my SMS photos are not working well.

[austinpancho69]

I crawled under the pedal assembly and found that appears to be some sort of very slight leak coming from above the pedals.
Please see the attached photos for reference.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... share_link

[Bimmerguy2002]

You should have this moved to TECH TALK, but Anyway it looks like it has some sort of reinforcement plate on the pedal bracket. It could be power steering fluid from it leaking internally and going thru the firewall boot, since its higher. But it could also be brake fluid has saturated everything from the master cylinder leaking. Smell it or taste it to rule it out, and check fluid levels.

[austinpancho69]

I crawled under the pedal assembly and found that appears to be some sort of very slight leak coming from above the pedals.
Please see the attached photos for reference.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... share_link

I also did not notice any cracks in the assembly

[austinpancho69]

You should have this moved to TECH TALK, but Anyway it looks like it has some sort of reinforcement plate on the pedal bracket. It could be power steering fluid from it leaking internally and going thru the firewall boot, since its higher. But it could also be brake fluid has saturated everything from the master cylinder leaking. Smell it or taste it to rule it out, and check fluid levels.

If I had known this thread would have developed into this, then I would have ahaha

I grabbed some of the leaking fluid and it was red. I assume it is either tranny fluid or power steering fluid. It is coming from the black boot seen in the 5th pic I uploaded on my google Drive.

Thank you.

[Spen]

Booster leaking? probably should just be moved to tech talk.

[kojo96]

It's almost impossible to see the pedal bracket crack while it's in the car. It has to come out and viewed in good light.
Try having someone sit in the car and depress the clutch pedal in/out, you look under the hood for any movement in the brake master cylinder, it should not move at all. The tinest movement indicates a cracked pedal bracket.
On one of my cars, the master had significant visual movement when the clutch pedal was depressed. Pulled the pedal bracket and sure enough, was cracked badly.