E28 Shifter FAQ

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
Shawn D.
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by Shawn D. »

Vinox wrote:Hey guys. I'm considering a Z3 1.9 conversion on my 1987 M535i. I suppose I have the aluminium console? And do I really need all the parts marked yellow, or is that more a "once you're in there, might as well". Just asking because I probably will replace all of it, but I don't know to what extent things are required to make the conversion work. Thanks!
I dunno, do you suppose you have the aluminium console? Why are you asking us if you suppose something? ;)

You do have said console. Don't be a cheap-ass -- go ahead and get all the parts, which are likely worn out.
Owndapwn
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by Owndapwn »

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing

Well, I can't seem to get the shift selector seal out. It was old (Duh) and had some oil on the selector.
I've been picking at it for the past hour or so and I think I've actually pushed it further in. So I'm going to do the smart thing and take a break and get some outside views.
Any tips would be great. Preferably quick ones. It's 60F today and my garage is not heated.


ALSO
This was linked in another thread that was linked in this one, but it's worth having here.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techart ... shings.htm
Could be the best guide for this repair.
davintosh
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by davintosh »

Most people just push the new selector seal in on top of the old one; there's apparently room in there for multiples, and it doesn't hurt anything having two. That's what I did on mine, and no leaks, no problems.
LarryM
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Re: Sheetmetal shifter shifter rod does not fit

Post by LarryM »

briangelc wrote:I think it is worth noting that, at least in my car, the orientation of the shift rod is opposite of the parts diagram available in Bentley Manual, RealOEM.com, Pelican Parts, and this forum. It shows the rod being inserted from the left (Drivers side) into the eye holes of the shifter and gearshift rod joint (P/N25117501309) - putting the retaining clips towards the right side.
When I tried to follow the diagram the hex bolt head interfered with the shift rod's movement (hex bolt holding the front end of the sheetmetal to the tranny case).
It may be possible that the "gearshift rod joint" was installed backwards at the factory, thus making it necessary to put the shift rod in backwards. If you look at the gearshift rod joint/shifter elbow thing, one side of the eyelet is more off axis than the other relative to the tranny input shaft. So if that part is installed with the longer side towards the left, then the shift rod has to come in from the right to make clearance.
I spent about 2 hours under the car wondering why the galldarned shift rod did not fit!!!!!!uugh!!
In the process of gathering parts for my 5-speed swap, I've seen several used gearshift linkages and there doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason which direction the shift rod faces (drivers or passenger side). Does it really matter in terms of function, as long as the shift rod has clearance under the sheet metal support?
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Re: Sheetmetal shifter shifter rod does not fit

Post by davintosh »

LarryM wrote:
briangelc wrote:I think it is worth noting that, at least in my car, the orientation of the shift rod is opposite of the parts diagram available in Bentley Manual, RealOEM.com, Pelican Parts, and this forum. It shows the rod being inserted from the left (Drivers side) into the eye holes of the shifter and gearshift rod joint (P/N25117501309) - putting the retaining clips towards the right side.
When I tried to follow the diagram the hex bolt head interfered with the shift rod's movement (hex bolt holding the front end of the sheetmetal to the tranny case).
It may be possible that the "gearshift rod joint" was installed backwards at the factory, thus making it necessary to put the shift rod in backwards. If you look at the gearshift rod joint/shifter elbow thing, one side of the eyelet is more off axis than the other relative to the tranny input shaft. So if that part is installed with the longer side towards the left, then the shift rod has to come in from the right to make clearance.
I spent about 2 hours under the car wondering why the galldarned shift rod did not fit!!!!!!uugh!!
In the process of gathering parts for my 5-speed swap, I've seen several used gearshift linkages and there doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason which direction the shift rod faces (drivers or passenger side). Does it really matter in terms of function, as long as the shift rod has clearance under the sheet metal support?
It's mentioned somewhere, either in this or another thread, that the RealOEM diagram shows the shift rod positioned on the wrong side. As far as function is concerned, it shouldn't matter, but it does matter with regard to how the rod fits in the space available and what other bits might interfere with it, as Larry discovered.
Owndapwn
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by Owndapwn »

If you're referring to item 10 on the sheet, yes, at least on the aluminum console in the 535i with a guibo with a Z3 SSK, if installed as on the diagrams, it pushes into the guibo and you can't shift most gears.
I installed mine upside down, and it cleared just fine, and shifts perfectly.

Also, I'm loving the Z3 shifter (PN: 25117527252) with the UUC Delrin carrier bearings (Round, off ebay, for like $10). Paired with the stainless UUC RK2, it's very satisfying. Solid and crisp, but not too far away from stock-like. Feels like a stock Porsche 996 Turbo. Rev-matching down to first and second is now possible, though that's because the rear bushing (#8) was basically missing.
So if you're not sure if you want an SSK, I say go for it. Will do on all future cars, for sure.
CrustyE
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by CrustyE »

Shameless thread necro, but is anybody running the Z3 2.8 shift lever in their ETA? I just picked up a lever from a '98 Z3 2.8 for pennies from work to go into my '86 ETA. How long does installation usually take with the car on a rack/full shop tools?
Owndapwn
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by Owndapwn »

CrustyE wrote:Shameless thread necro, but is anybody running the Z3 2.8 shift lever in their ETA? I just picked up a lever from a '98 Z3 2.8 for pennies from work to go into my '86 ETA. How long does installation usually take with the car on a rack/full shop tools?
Same shifter as what I've got.
Assuming you have all the parts needed the first time around, probably three hours (Four without a lift/pit) if you drop the driveshaft and exhaust, and I'd guess between thirty and one-hundred labour hours if you leave it up.
Mine took two weeks because I forgot the carrier bushings (Which I replaced with UUC's delrin bushings) and had to wait a week to get them in, and another week because I noticed my reverse switch wire was almost missing completely. :oops:
LarryM
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by LarryM »

Has anybody figured out an easy way to get the “Stop Buffer” (Item #10, part #25111204422) through the holes in items #9 and #12? Holy %@*& that thing is a tight fit! I’ve tried lubricating it with some WD40 and when that failed I lathered it with synthetic grease. Still can’t get it through the holes and I’m worried about tearing it. I’m working on a bench; I can’t even imagine how tough it would be trying to get it in with the shifter support in the car!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=25_0145

In a post above, "derrith" said that using part #13711259818 (a rubber bushing used for the air filter housing) in place of item #10 works out well; it’s much easier to install (it just bolts in) and is allegedly less prone to failure. I’ve purchased one as a backup but it’s about ¾” shorter than item #10; not sure how well that would work out. I could also fabricate something if necessary, but I’d prefer to have the factory-designed setup using item #10 if possible. Is there any good way to get it in?
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by davintosh »

LarryM wrote:Has anybody figured out an easy way to get the “Stop Buffer” (Item #10, part #25111204422) through the holes in items #9 and #12? Holy %@*& that thing is a tight fit! I’ve tried lubricating it with some WD40 and when that failed I lathered it with synthetic grease. Still can’t get it through the holes and I’m worried about tearing it. I’m working on a bench; I can’t even imagine how tough it would be trying to get it in with the shifter support in the car!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=25_0145

In a post above, "derrith" said that using part #13711259818 (a rubber bushing used for the air filter housing) in place of item #10 works out well; it’s much easier to install (it just bolts in) and is allegedly less prone to failure. I’ve purchased one as a backup but it’s about ¾” shorter than item #10; not sure how well that would work out. I could also fabricate something if necessary, but I’d prefer to have the factory-designed setup using item #10 if possible. Is there any good way to get it in?
I replaced that on my 528e (years ago) and don't remember it being all that difficult to get in (I do remember a few others that drove me crazy though!) Have you tried a little hand sanitizer or something else to slick them up to slide through?
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by Tiit »

I'm doing z3 shifter conversion and bushing replacement at the moment. New genuine bmw gearshift rod joint ( part number 25117501309) from pelican,has slop in the bushing. Hole in the bushing is oval 10mm by 11mm which is not much better than the old worn one came out. That can't be right can it? I thought I'd ask you guys before complain to Pelican.
Shawn D.
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by Shawn D. »

Tiit wrote:I'm doing z3 shifter conversion and bushing replacement at the moment. New genuine bmw gearshift rod joint ( part number 25117501309) from pelican,has slop in the bushing. Hole in the bushing is oval 10mm by 11mm which is not much better than the old worn one came out. That can't be right can it? I thought I'd ask you guys before complain to Pelican.
That's right. If you were to do a motion analysis of the linkage, you'd see it's necessary, as the arc the shifter moves in side-to-side causes the front pin to angle in that knuckle. If that hole were not oval, it would bind.
demetk
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by demetk »

Wow. All this time I thought my new joint was defective as well and decided not to use it. ;) On a side note, I have found that the later symmetric joints (e34) don't seem to have that oval.
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by N44RP »

EE TWO EIGHT
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by EE TWO EIGHT »

Ok, two questions. How do zI know which console I have in my 1985 E28 535i so I know what to order. AND, is a 1984~ E30 shifter set up the same as an E28 set up? I ask because a buddy has an entire short shift kit with bushings, clips, shifter and everything he is no longer in need of because his car got stolen after he ordered all the parts.
slownrusty
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by slownrusty »

I recently installed an E30 short shifter on my E24 and its quite a drastic improvement over the stock. You will also need the E30 DSSR as well and the selector rod joint ($30).

Image
juan c.
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by juan c. »

I have a late car that was auto/manual swapped with the transmission from an E30 M3 and a sheet metal console. It looks like the vertical tab thats welded to the tunnel has gone missing. The pic above is the first reference I have seen to how it all attaches to the car. I have no idea how it was held together before but it fell apart recently while I was driving to work and now i'm trying to fix it with the rebuild kit. It looks like I'm going to have to screw the bracket directly to the tunnel somehow. Anybody else ever see this? Am I going to have to get someone to weld a tab on there?
This is way worse than I thought it was going to be (isn't it always.)

John
Shawn D.
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by Shawn D. »

juan c. wrote:I have a late car that was auto/manual swapped with the transmission from an E30 M3 and a sheet metal console. It looks like the vertical tab thats welded to the tunnel has gone missing. The pic above is the first reference I have seen to how it all attaches to the car. I have no idea how it was held together before but it fell apart recently while I was driving to work and now i'm trying to fix it with the rebuild kit. It looks like I'm going to have to screw the bracket directly to the tunnel somehow. Anybody else ever see this? Am I going to have to get someone to weld a tab on there?
This is way worse than I thought it was going to be (isn't it always.)
I have done two auto-to-manual swaps (and am about to do a third) and it's easy to simply flip the bushed bracket upside down and bolt it to the tunnel. Yeah, it's not stock, but you only need to drill a couple of holes and use a couple of 8mm bolts. Just pull the part of the console that's above the area and cut the carpet for access.
juan c.
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by juan c. »

Shawn-
Thanks for your reply. I thought I was losing my mind. I bolted the sheet metal to the top of the tunnel for now and it works but when i have my garage back I will figure out how to make it work properly with the bracket.
So the auto cars didn't have that tab? I guess I need to go read the auto/manual swap posts...
Shawn D.
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Re: E28 Shifter FAQ

Post by Shawn D. »

juan c. wrote:Shawn-
Thanks for your reply. I thought I was losing my mind. I bolted the sheet metal to the top of the tunnel for now and it works but when i have my garage back I will figure out how to make it work properly with the bracket.
So the auto cars didn't have that tab? I guess I need to go read the auto/manual swap posts...
You're welcome. No, the E28 autos didn't have that tab (E24 autos did, so don't let that confuse you).
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