FAQ E28 Transmissions, an overview

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
wkohler
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Post by wkohler »

kohlmetoba wrote:Hi there knowledgable people of mye28. I have a warped 3rd gear in my 1984 533i and was planning to replace it. I learnt from various sources that I needed a Getrag 260/5, so i decided to get one off craigslist, I got a decent one from some guy on CL but upon telling my mechanic to fit it in? he says its the wrong tranny that the bell housing is wrong and he keeps saying the tranny is too long Idk exactly what is wrong cos i thought this tranny was fairly universal, if anyone needs it in the LA area u can come check it out and pick it up for 200.
There are a couple different 260/5s. There's the one for the M30 (what's in your 533) and then it was also used in the '83-on 528e. They're not interchangeable. You need one from an M30 car, so contact who I told you to contact. :D
e28stian
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Post by e28stian »

The aluminium shifter console from the getrag 260/6 is compatible with the alu console from the m20 mounted 240 boxes belonging in e30 cars. Just thought i would add this info.
trav3000
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Re: FAQ E28 Transmissions, an overview

Post by trav3000 »

Does the auto 4hp 22eh tranny also have the burn up problem when revving in park?
Jeremy
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Re: FAQ E28 Transmissions, an overview

Post by Jeremy »

trav3000 wrote:Does the auto 4hp 22eh tranny also have the burn up problem when revving in park?
Park or neutral. Unless the transmission has been repaired and updated, all 4hp22 transmissions share that problem. Even if you have one with the "fix", I still wouldn't rev it in park or neutral.
trav3000
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Re: FAQ E28 Transmissions, an overview

Post by trav3000 »

Jeremy wrote:
trav3000 wrote:Does the auto 4hp 22eh tranny also have the burn up problem when revving in park?
Park or neutral. Unless the transmission has been repaired and updated, all 4hp22 transmissions share that problem. Even if you have one with the "fix", I still wouldn't rev it in park or neutral.

ahhhhh. but the exhaust sounds so good :cry:
alijonny
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Post by alijonny »

alijonny wrote:another question, I have a known good spare 260/6 that I want to swap into my 745i. I have all the parts to do the swap, the 745 already has a 260/5 with a nasty whine in 1st and a bad synchro in third. I realize there is a different shifter support, is this possible to swap over from a different shifter support without too much work involved?

bump for my unanswered questions...

so does anyone know the length difference between the 260/5 and 260/6? or should I just buy another 260/5 and be done for now?
I think I have issues where the trans noise is making trouble for the knock sensor causing it to pull unnecessary timing ( does that sound right?). 4th has an interesting low rumble/ constant grind under load, 3rd has no synchro but holds fine, 1st whines...nothing pops out of gear, but I like to impress the ladies by acting like I drive a stick car. It doesn't help when 3rd grinds EVERY time. lol.
Hit Man X
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Post by Hit Man X »

alijonny wrote:
alijonny wrote:another question, I have a known good spare 260/6 that I want to swap into my 745i. I have all the parts to do the swap, the 745 already has a 260/5 with a nasty whine in 1st and a bad synchro in third. I realize there is a different shifter support, is this possible to swap over from a different shifter support without too much work involved?

bump for my unanswered questions...

so does anyone know the length difference between the 260/5 and 260/6? or should I just buy another 260/5 and be done for now?
I think I have issues where the trans noise is making trouble for the knock sensor causing it to pull unnecessary timing ( does that sound right?). 4th has an interesting low rumble/ constant grind under load, 3rd has no synchro but holds fine, 1st whines...nothing pops out of gear, but I like to impress the ladies by acting like I drive a stick car. It doesn't help when 3rd grinds EVERY time. lol.


I was under the impression the 260/6 is stronger than the 260/5 (how/why, I do not know) and was available in '86 MY E23s per REALoem... good luck finding an '86 manual E23 for the driveshaft but anything is possible. Since the 260/6 was installed in the E23, I cannot fathom why you cannot install a 260/6 from whatever vehicle into your 745i with the appropriate driveshaft and modify the shifter assembly accordingly... But maybe there is a reason you cannot, that I just am missing. :?

Do you have a tape measure? You could just go out and measure them, at least that is what I would do. We may be surprised and they could be nearly the same length. Bimmerboard old posts show 20-1/8" v 19-3/8" so you would just have to shorten the shaft a bit then figure out how the back of the newer shifter linkage mounts.

I would like to know how/why the /5 is weak before I spend my time sourcing and installing the /6.

For the 745i and KR, could be many things causing it. Valve train noise, bad plugs, bad fuel, low fuel at the injectors, AFM out of adjustment, dirty injectors, etc. Just going to have to go over the basics and go from there.
alijonny
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Post by alijonny »

Hit Man X wrote:
alijonny wrote:
alijonny wrote:another question, I have a known good spare 260/6 that I want to swap into my 745i. I have all the parts to do the swap, the 745 already has a 260/5 with a nasty whine in 1st and a bad synchro in third. I realize there is a different shifter support, is this possible to swap over from a different shifter support without too much work involved?

bump for my unanswered questions...

so does anyone know the length difference between the 260/5 and 260/6? or should I just buy another 260/5 and be done for now?
I think I have issues where the trans noise is making trouble for the knock sensor causing it to pull unnecessary timing ( does that sound right?). 4th has an interesting low rumble/ constant grind under load, 3rd has no synchro but holds fine, 1st whines...nothing pops out of gear, but I like to impress the ladies by acting like I drive a stick car. It doesn't help when 3rd grinds EVERY time. lol.


I was under the impression the 260/6 is stronger than the 260/5 (how/why, I do not know) and was available in '86 MY E23s per REALoem... good luck finding an '86 manual E23 for the driveshaft but anything is possible. Since the 260/6 was installed in the E23, I cannot fathom why you cannot install a 260/6 from whatever vehicle into your 745i with the appropriate driveshaft and modify the shifter assembly accordingly... But maybe there is a reason you cannot, that I just am missing. :?

Do you have a tape measure? You could just go out and measure them, at least that is what I would do. We may be surprised and they could be nearly the same length. Bimmerboard old posts show 20-1/8" v 19-3/8" so you would just have to shorten the shaft a bit then figure out how the back of the newer shifter linkage mounts.

I would like to know how/why the /5 is weak before I spend my time sourcing and installing the /6.

For the 745i and KR, could be many things causing it. Valve train noise, bad plugs, bad fuel, low fuel at the injectors, AFM out of adjustment, dirty injectors, etc. Just going to have to go over the basics and go from there.
the engine is quite healthy. The trans is doing all the damage, I also forgot to mention that when the clutch pedal is released, it makes a horrible noise. I know it's not the T/O bearing as the noise disappears when the clutch pedal is pressed. I feel that all my trans woes will be solved by doing away with this particular 260/5. I think this trans has seen "things" and "stuff". I do wish I knew the guy who swapped the trans.
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Post by shagrath »

I like this thread. Very helpful. Now how does one use the control knob during driving? Mine stays in economy and when I put it in sport or step-up mode it springs back instead of staying where I select it. Thoughts?
mooseheadm5
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

The switch is designed to move itself back when you turn off the car. Perhaps there is a fault with that circuit or with the detents in the switch.
shagrath
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Post by shagrath »

mooseheadm5 wrote:The switch is designed to move itself back when you turn off the car. Perhaps there is a fault with that circuit or with the detents in the switch.
It does this while driving I mean. If I select sport... it goes back to economy. Same with the step down operations. Now when the car is off... the switch wil stay where I put it until the car starts.
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

shagrath wrote:
mooseheadm5 wrote:The switch is designed to move itself back when you turn off the car. Perhaps there is a fault with that circuit or with the detents in the switch.
It does this while driving I mean. If I select sport... it goes back to economy. Same with the step down operations. Now when the car is off... the switch wil stay where I put it until the car starts.
Check the ETM and see what activates it to snap back. It is a solenoid that does it. Perhaps it is being energized constantly.
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Post by shagrath »

mooseheadm5 wrote:
shagrath wrote:
mooseheadm5 wrote:The switch is designed to move itself back when you turn off the car. Perhaps there is a fault with that circuit or with the detents in the switch.
It does this while driving I mean. If I select sport... it goes back to economy. Same with the step down operations. Now when the car is off... the switch wil stay where I put it until the car starts.
Check the ETM and see what activates it to snap back. It is a solenoid that does it. Perhaps it is being energized constantly.
My thoughts too. If its going to be a crazy expensive thing to fix I won't worry with it. Ill do a five speed swap next year then. :)
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

I'd be tempted to just pull the power to the solenoid. The reset feature is just to keep you from always leaving it in sport or manual, probably for fuel economy reasons.
wkohler
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Post by wkohler »

mooseheadm5 wrote:I'd be tempted to just pull the power to the solenoid. The reset feature is just to keep you from always leaving it in sport or manual, probably for fuel economy reasons.
That seems as stupid and a waste to me as the servo for the fresh air flaps.
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Post by shagrath »

wkohler wrote:
mooseheadm5 wrote:I'd be tempted to just pull the power to the solenoid. The reset feature is just to keep you from always leaving it in sport or manual, probably for fuel economy reasons.
That seems as stupid and a waste to me as the servo for the fresh air flaps.
This. So if I yank power from the servo, the switch will still work... but it won't reset itself? Cool.I can live with that. I'm more in tune with my cars than many... so I can remember.
AntonyR
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Post by AntonyR »

While gathering parts from two different cars to complete an auto to manual swap (Car #1 is a Euro '86 635 Car #2 is an '88 528e) into an '88 535is.
Almost everything came from the 635- trans, flywheel, driveshaft, bent shift rod.
From the 528, a complete aluminum shift console with it's straight shift rod, and the rear crossmember.
I have two questions: The aluminum casting of the console is a different part number than the one used in the 535 according to realoem. Is the 528 console different, even though it's from the same year car as the one it's going into?
Also, can anyone confirm that the bent rod from the 635, since it looks to be repaired at some point, that it is the correct length?
Since the straight rod from the 528 is quite a bit shorter, I'm concerned that the aluminum console will be shorter too...
Image
wkohler
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Post by wkohler »

The console is specific to the transmission, so since the 528e uses a different transmission (260/5), it won't work on the 260/6. But you knew that.
domenico
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transmission question

Post by domenico »

I put a auto transmission from a 84 533 into a 86 535i. I am trying to find the part on the throttle housing that will control the transmission cable. Does anyone no were i could find that piece. Thanks DOM :laugh:
burgesat
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Post by burgesat »

I want to do a manual swap into my 84' 533i. I car im taking the transmission from is an 88' 535is, so it is a 260/6. will this fit in my 84' 533i?
LA
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Post by LA »

alijonny wrote:
alijonny wrote:another question, I have a known good spare 260/6 that I want to swap into my 745i. I have all the parts to do the swap, the 745 already has a 260/5 with a nasty whine in 1st and a bad synchro in third. I realize there is a different shifter support, is this possible to swap over from a different shifter support without too much work involved?

bump for my unanswered questions...

so does anyone know the length difference between the 260/5 and 260/6? or should I just buy another 260/5 and be done for now?
I think I have issues where the trans noise is making trouble for the knock sensor causing it to pull unnecessary timing ( does that sound right?). 4th has an interesting low rumble/ constant grind under load, 3rd has no synchro but holds fine, 1st whines...nothing pops out of gear, but I like to impress the ladies by acting like I drive a stick car. It doesn't help when 3rd grinds EVERY time. lol.
OK - I have one of each in the garage...I've been through this stuff in coming up with a drive shaft but never recorded the length you specifically asked for. To what degree of accuracy would you like yo have these numbers recorded?
wkohler
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Post by wkohler »

260/6 driveshaft: 1566mm

260/5 driveshaft: 1592mm
parts-n-things
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swap

Post by parts-n-things »

sorry bolt wont catch treads.
tjones02
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Post by tjones02 »

G242/18 and 19
4 speed 518i from 5/81 to 8/82 production. Not available in US market E28. Same as US E21 320i M10/B20 before '80 production.

G240/5
5 speed 518i from 9/82 til end of production in 12/87. Not available in US market E28 Same transmission as US '83-84 E30 318i M10/B18 engine.
savannah996
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Trans compatibility

Post by savannah996 »

Is there a chart on 5-sp compatibility?
For instance can a 260 or 265 be used in a E28 M5?
Does the 280 have a removable bellhousing to use a 265?
It would be nice to have a chart or something posted up front for people who may not have the original trans available and need to know what all models can be installed and what mods need performed.
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