M30B35 Swap FAQ

[6finger]

Your Motronic 1.0 flywheel sensors are not used on Motronic 1.3. They will not plug in anywhere. Remove them. That is one of the best parts about M1.3, ditching those failure-prone things.

2-wire connector in general vicinity of alternator is for the oil level sensor, IIRC. The B35 one is different and you will want to use it.

Round 4-wire twist-lock connector is for oxygen sensor. You will need a B35 oxygen sensor. It is different. What you say is your oil level sensor wiring is NOT your oil level sensor wiring, that looks like the sub-harness connector that meets the main harness. Other connector in pic is possibly for emissions purge valve which is in same area. Where should the purge hose be routeB

Eyelet connectors are not all grounds. You will have 2 grounds and the other 2 wires are for ignition coil.

Which 2 are the ignition coil wires?

[6finger]

e24 c101 2 by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

e24 c101 1 by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

Tell me how horribly screwed I am...

Your Motronic 1.0 flywheel sensors are not used on Motronic 1.3. They will not plug in anywhere. Remove them. That is one of the best parts about M1.3, ditching those failure-prone things.

2-wire connector in general vicinity of alternator is for the oil level sensor, IIRC. The B35 one is different and you will want to use it.

Round 4-wire twist-lock connector is for oxygen sensor. You will need a B35 oxygen sensor. It is different. What you say is your oil level sensor wiring is NOT your oil level sensor wiring, that looks like the sub-harness connector that meets the main harness. Other connector in pic is possibly for emissions purge valve which is in same area.

Eyelet connectors are not all grounds. You will have 2 grounds and the other 2 wires are for ignition coil.

[SlickDizzy]

The ground eyelets are connected to brown wires. Brown = ground in E28 land. The ones that aren't brown are your coil wires.

That doesn't look like C101 to me.

[6finger]

Howdy folks! thanks so much for all of the help I've gotten form all of you with this swap.. I will post a wire pin out for my 12 pin square early model c101 as soon as I have a couple things sorted.
my pin numbers don't correlate to anyone's diagrams so I've been just using common color code and gauge to help myself along. Which has brought me to the point where I have everything but fuel pump power. The diagram below mentions splice at s127 and s128 on m1.3 pin 7 and 13 m1 e28 pin 12&16 and 7&17 I'm not sure what that means?? I do know that my green violet wire coming form the fuse box is show no power in either key position. The large gauge green (coil wire) is hot key on.. I'm tempted to just splice but?? Thanks!

Brad Denton diagram by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

[gegge]

Hi folks from across the pond
I’m looking for a bit of help with this swap
I have a M30B34 and have swapped to motronic 1.3,but have used a manual loom and have a switchable slush box!
To solve this I’ve now got a high line loom from an auto,I also have the 6 pin TPS to put on
My question is how to mate my original E28 box loom to my motronic 1.3 loom?
There are 12 pins on the engine loom and only 10 on my box loom
The car is running at the mo with the manual loom,albeit stuck in limp mode as the engine and box aren’t communicating
I also have no rev counter or temp gauge although this seems to have been covered in the post somewhere
Any help with this is much appreciated

Cheers,Jason

/\_/\

Hi, I´m a total noobie and need some help. I have a E23 745 with the M106 engine that doesn't start. I believe the stock system is an enhanced Motronic 1.0 with DME and KLR like Porsche 944 turbo. Since I have some goodies like M88 inlet manifold and a rather hot cam there should be some benefits swapping to Motronic 1.3 loom with a programmable livechip. I can live with boost retard and knock box delete, maybe build a standalone system for that. Innovate Wideband is available. I would like to keep the automatic and need assistance with connecting the engine loom and auto loom, just like Jason.

Cheers, Carl

[iamcreepingdeath]

The E28 cluster has a BR/VI wire leading to it that feeds the temperature gauge. If you are using a B34 Sender, then the BR/VI wire from the harness (was going to pin 4 on the 20X connector) will go to the BR/WH wire at pin 4 of the C101.

This is super straight forward, so I'm not sure why others had temp gauges that didn't work. Maybe it's because they were using B35 Senders?

So... All I have to do is replace the B35 sender with a B34 sender, and the dash temp gauge will work?

I am swapping a complete E32 B35 into an E28. I wired the C101s together per the pinout table in this thread, with pin 4 to pin 4 (as above quoted).

[Bimmerguy2002]

The super eta sensor for the cluster, orange top usually with one pin is a correct one, and the (one of, the correct one) blue for the ECU for the temp is the correct one.

[cek]

The spreadsheet I had used to track all parts for the M30B35 build/swap I did in Vlad.

https://1drv.ms/x/s!AsIgsqrZdRUOnCzzzFj ... P?e=Ipxh1u

[harrypalmer]

Can any of you please share why on your most complete and helpful list, did not replace the E28 radiator for the E34?
Maybe I missed reading your intel on this. Anyhow, is it due to lack of physical space that kept you from properly install it? One would think the E34 radiator may have a larger capacity but of course don't know the answer to both questions, so would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks.

[cek]

Can any of you please share why on your most complete and helpful list, did not replace the E28 radiator for the E34?
Maybe I missed reading your intel on this. Anyhow, is it due to lack of physical space that kept you from properly install it? One would think the E34 radiator may have a larger capacity but of course don't know the answer to both questions, so would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks.

I simply didn't consider a new rad. Vlad's been driven hard in the heat and I have had zero cooling issues.

[harrypalmer]

Can any of you please share why on your most complete and helpful list, did not replace the E28 radiator for the E34?
Maybe I missed reading your intel on this. Anyhow, is it due to lack of physical space that kept you from properly install it? One would think the E34 radiator may have a larger capacity but of course don't know the answer to both questions, so would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks.

I simply didn't consider a new rad. Vlad's been driven hard in the heat and I have had zero cooling issues.

Thank you cek. Is Vlad's rad a OE BMW or Nissens unit? Been having some issues with my own South African and considering replacing it for now and for the upcoming swap.

[cek]

Can any of you please share why on your most complete and helpful list, did not replace the E28 radiator for the E34?
Maybe I missed reading your intel on this. Anyhow, is it due to lack of physical space that kept you from properly install it? One would think the E34 radiator may have a larger capacity but of course don't know the answer to both questions, so would appreciate if you can share your thoughts. Thanks.

I simply didn't consider a new rad. Vlad's been driven hard in the heat and I have had zero cooling issues.

Thank you cek. Is Vlad's rad a OE BMW or Nissens unit? Been having some issues with my own South African and considering replacing it for now and for the upcoming swap.

Dunno. I've never really paid attention to radiators. This is the best pic I could find of the one in Vlad. LOL.

[jayjaya29]

Thank you cek. Is Vlad's rad a OE BMW or Nissens unit? Been having some issues with my own South African and considering replacing it for now and for the upcoming swap.

This thread will be helpful to you:
viewtopic.php?p=1488053

[maybeillbuyit]

The spreadsheet I had used to track all parts for the M30B35 build/swap I did in Vlad.

https://1drv.ms/x/s!AsIgsqrZdRUOnCzzzFj ... P?e=Ipxh1u

This is great cek, thx for posting. Im in the planning stage for this ( maybe forever LOL)