M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
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Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
Good to know.. while I was startled by the seeming 'looseness' of the Elring gasket compared to the soggy weepy original I replaced .. it hasn't leaked, so I may be making a mountain out of a molehill. I remember it though, because the Original BMW front crank seal I installed was much harder to seat properly.
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Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
BBRV. Your last post made me realize that a photo might be of service to others.
Left is the BMW OEM, Corteco in the middle and Elring to your right. By tactile feel and appearance decided to install the Corteco. And like you with the BMW brand, it was a tight which I consider it a benefit. Regards.
Left is the BMW OEM, Corteco in the middle and Elring to your right. By tactile feel and appearance decided to install the Corteco. And like you with the BMW brand, it was a tight which I consider it a benefit. Regards.
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Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
The Elring is a dead ringer for the one I installed.. the Corteco looks to be identical to the Original BMW.. to my eye anyway. Probably made the right choice, sir.
Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
Bentley calls for the rotor adapter to be torqued to 44 ft./lbs. onto the end of the camshaft. That's a high value for an M8 bolt; is that the torque setting you guys used during re-assembly? Snapping that bolt off in the end of the camshaft would put you in a world of hurt!
Also, is Loctite Blue the correct thread locker? Bentley doesn't specify.
Also, is Loctite Blue the correct thread locker? Bentley doesn't specify.
Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
Dunno what's correct, but every one I've removed has hurt my hand from the shock of breaking loose using a folding hex key set. Now I'm not a big torque wrench guy, head bolt, main and rod bearings excepted, so keep that in mind. But, since it isn't a torque critical component, like say bearings, reasonably tight and locktite, either red or blue should be ok. Actually I've never used locktite on it, nor a torque wrench and never had a problem.LarryM wrote: ↑Aug 28, 2021 3:33 AM Bentley calls for the rotor adapter to be torqued to 44 ft./lbs. onto the end of the camshaft. That's a high value for an M8 bolt; is that the torque setting you guys used during re-assembly? Snapping that bolt off in the end of the camshaft would put you in a world of hurt!
Also, is Loctite Blue the correct thread locker? Bentley doesn't specify.
Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
A quick search indicates that the max torque for an M8 bolt is typically about 35 ft./lb.
I wonder if it's possible that Bentley's torque specification is wrong?
I typically use a torque wrench whenever a specific torque is recommended. When I remove this bolt I'll do it using a torque wrench and see how much it takes to break loose.
I wonder if it's possible that Bentley's torque specification is wrong?
I typically use a torque wrench whenever a specific torque is recommended. When I remove this bolt I'll do it using a torque wrench and see how much it takes to break loose.
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Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
I’m agreeing with Mike… I tighten it very tight by hand but with a feel for the fastener.. and I’ve never used a torque wrench here, I ignore it. And no threadlocker either. I’ve changed out rotors on these cars for twenty five years, never a problem.
Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
For the upper timing cover gasket re-seal, does anyone have any pictures?
I don’t quite understand why and where you’re cutting the head gasket.
I don’t quite understand why and where you’re cutting the head gasket.
Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
Also, I already have the crank hub and seal off.
Should I also do the lower timing cover?
If I take both off, the head gasket “stub” between the upper and lower timing covers would just be hanging there?
Also, is it likely I’d be able to get the lower cover off without damaging the oil pan gasket?
Should I also do the lower timing cover?
If I take both off, the head gasket “stub” between the upper and lower timing covers would just be hanging there?
Also, is it likely I’d be able to get the lower cover off without damaging the oil pan gasket?
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Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
In order:
I did.
Yes.
It’s possible. Work slowly. Obviously the joint where the cover meets the front of the block and the oil pan is critical to no leakage. Dropping the oil pan does introduce another level of complexity which usually isn’t warranted unless it’s leaking.. in which case..
If memory serves, the same dab of the correct RTV at the joint is called for.. and I used Hylomar AF on the exposed head and pan gaskets to stop and prevent leaks. I love that stuff.
I did.
Yes.
It’s possible. Work slowly. Obviously the joint where the cover meets the front of the block and the oil pan is critical to no leakage. Dropping the oil pan does introduce another level of complexity which usually isn’t warranted unless it’s leaking.. in which case..
If memory serves, the same dab of the correct RTV at the joint is called for.. and I used Hylomar AF on the exposed head and pan gaskets to stop and prevent leaks. I love that stuff.
Re: M30 Front Cam Shaft Seal Leak help
I'm in the middle of this project right now. When I removed my upper timing cover, the head gasket "ring" did tear on one side, just forward of the cylinder head. The gasket did seem rather brittle; I don't believe the head has ever been off the car.
Now I'm trying to decide if I should re-use the existing, torn head gasket ring and put everything back together using sealant in the appropriate places, and hope for no leaks.
The alternative would be to buy a NEW head gasket, cut the forward "ring" off, and use that during re-assembly. However since it would be a separate piece I'd still have to worry about re-sealing it in the separated sections, so I don't know if there's any real advantage to this option.
Now I'm trying to decide if I should re-use the existing, torn head gasket ring and put everything back together using sealant in the appropriate places, and hope for no leaks.
The alternative would be to buy a NEW head gasket, cut the forward "ring" off, and use that during re-assembly. However since it would be a separate piece I'd still have to worry about re-sealing it in the separated sections, so I don't know if there's any real advantage to this option.