After 30+ years of folks removing and reinstalling the driver's kick panel on Vlad, the holes the screws that hold said kick panel in place are shot.
I want to put some epoxy or something in them holes to make them hold screws like new. Or newish. Or, at least good enough so the screws hold until the next damn time I have to take the panel off again.
Anyone done this successfully? What's the right epoxy/glue/potion to use? Technique?
I've thought about cutting a flap in the vinyl and using epoxy or CA glue, affix 1/2 of a 'clip-nut' or whatever they are called in there, and glue the flap of vinyl back over it.
ElGuappo wrote:I've thought about cutting a flap in the vinyl and using epoxy or CA glue, affix 1/2 of a 'clip-nut' or whatever they are called in there, and glue the flap of vinyl back over it.
If you fill it with epoxy then drill and run a screw in I think it is likely the epoxy might just tear out a bigger hole. Since this is a urethane I might be inclined to try filling the hole with a shot of something like great stuff minimal expansion foam. It might be more similar to the original material and you could try it first on a big hole you drill in a scrap of wood to see if it holds the screws.
Beware, that stuff can be very messy and difficult to clean if you get it in the wrong places and you should let it dry a good long time before you run a screw in. Theoretically if it works you could repair it many times over with the same procedure... fill it, put something on the floor in case it drips, wait for it to cure, trim off the excess if there is some poking out, ready again...
I think the screws usually (almost always) go into metal at some point. You might not be able to see it, but I think it's metal. Which make repairs all that much more difficult. You might be able to get behind it and slip a tinnerman nut in there, maybe gluing it in place to locate it, but I think you'd have to go in behind. I don't think anything you do in front is really going to work.
Sorry I must be confusing with somewhere else in the dash like the IC. I've repaired worn out holes with a center punch to either side of the screw hole to shrink it but I have no idea if you can get in there to back it up and do that successfully. Sounds like the clip is best advice or maybe epoxy the important half to the backside if the u cannot reach around the sheet metal.
demetk wrote:It is metal. You may be able to slip a u-clip onto the metal part.
anyone have a bad dash lying around they can deconstruct for me to definitively illustrate how this lower section is constructed? Where precisely the metal is? How thick? How deep?
demetk wrote:It is metal. You may be able to slip a u-clip onto the metal part.
anyone have a bad dash lying around they can deconstruct for me to definitively illustrate how this lower section is constructed? Where precisely the metal is? How thick? How deep?
Thanks.
I actually do...I can take pics tonight after work. I put in a new Euro dash two years ago, which solved this issue for me. I still haven't taken my old one to the dumps, so have no problem looking at it and getting some good pics.
I had good results a few years ago on an e30 that had this same issue. In desperation, I had some seam-seal leftover from a different project. The kind that you need a caulk gun to use. I put the nozzle to the hole, gave it a good squirt, wiped the quim off the front and let it cure for a week (OK, here come the infantiles...)
I then drilled a small pilot hole, let it set for another week and then silicon lubed it well and replaced the knee bolster.
I had to remove/replace the bolster a few times in the next couple years without issues.
If (when) I have to do this again I'll do it the same way
My advice having done this many times in the past on various models is to use a 2 part structural plastic polyurethane. Something like Wurth Replast or Fusor 153 or equivalent. These products cure to workable condition within 10mins and can be drilled, sanded, painted - whatever, and will bond to the dash vinyl/foam/steel like shit to a blanket. Fill the hole, wait 10 mins, drill a tiny pilot hole once it's cured and then thread the original dash screw back in. It will work as good as new, and you'll be able to remove and reinstall that screw as many times as you like.
Have we come through this issue with something that works? I'm having a similar issue as Cek and am inclined to try the method proposed by Das Prachtstrasse above. I'd also like to order new screws however having trouble finding the correct part numbers. In the first photo below, the single screw, top row is the one realoem lists as the correct screw (4.6mm thread diameter) for the lower dash panel, however I'm pretty confident it's incorrect as the screws that came out of the panel are shown in row two and you'll notice the screw thread diameter is 2.9mm and the head is larger. The third row is one of the two screws that hold my switch panel to the dash and these are the ones that are mostly stripped out; these are also 2.9mm thread diameter but I'm pretty sure they are incorrect as the heads are wrong (I think they should look like the screws in row two, but shorter (12mm vice 16mm) so they don't punch through the top of the dash). Realoem doesn't even list these? The fourth row is one of the top center dash vent screws that I used to confirm thread diameter.
Also note I couldn't find a shorter screw for this application.
Now, my dash had been messed with so I bought a bunch of fasteners, speed nuts, etc. to try to fix it.
Someone with a mint dash may have a definite answer
Also note I couldn't find a shorter screw for this application.
Now, my dash had been messed with so I bought a bunch of fasteners, speed nuts, etc. to try to fix it.
Someone with a mint dash may have a definite answer
Both of those are too large for the lower dash panel. After a lot of digging, I’m 95% confident the correct part number for the lower dash panel screws is 51451854011, which per realoem has ended, but does appear to have availability from several online sources. For the light switch panel, I’ve been unable to find the correct part number. However a common #4x1/2” sheet metal screw available at any hardware store would make a good replacement. Since one of mine was stripped out I used a #6x1/2” black oxide sheet metal screw and it worked perfectly and looks OEM. I’ll post a photo of them later today.
