Coolant drain

E28 technical advice asked and given! Troubleshooting, modifications and more.
Mike W.
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Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: California Whine Country

Post by Mike W. »

Frybrid 524td wrote:
Boiwonder wrote:so i'm just going to bump this and ask a question instead of starting a new thread... or anything.

i'm going to drain the coolant on my 528e and 535i and my e21. i'm just going off the bentley manual it says that i'm going to need a new gasket for the engine block drain plug, i'm sorry but I can't seem to find the part number for the gasket can anyone help me out with that.

if anyone knows, for the e21 is it the same thing? with drain plug and the gasket and what not...?
I can only speak to the E28, but the block drain plug uses a crush washer to seal, not a gasket. If you don't have a new crush washer you can heat up the old one with a propane torch to anneal it and it will be able to be crushed back down again when you torque the plug.
It is the same, and while annealing it might soften it up, it's already thinner. However I've reused them without doing anything except maybe wrapping some teflon tape on them and never had a leak. YMMV.
I'm the DRIVER
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Location: So. Cal.

Post by I'm the DRIVER »

I use a catch tray (whatever its called) for draining auto trans. With a regular drain pan under it. It catches most of the fluids. Its like an inverted trash can lid with holes on the middle...come to think of it... you can use an old trash can lid and drill holes on it.
vinceg101
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Post by vinceg101 »

528elover wrote:
Frybrid 524td wrote:This is what I installed: Autometer adaptor 2267 and a PN 4112T63 from McMaster-Carr. I'll just screw in an 1/8" hose barb with a hose on it the next time I have to drain the block. I also put a similar setup in the bottom of my oil filter housing (M12 x 1.5 to 1/8" NPT). Obviously, this necessitates a skid plate though.
Thanks! This is very helpful. Is there any reason why a fumoto valve wouldn't work for this application also?

Image
This is working quite well for the block drain in the M535; I put one in back in May and it sure beats having hot coolant rain all over you when you're flushing a block:
Image

Just hook up a length of neoprene hose to the nipple and run it down to pan/bucket/container then open the valve. Works like a dream. It works best with the extender adapter; this will push the valve out away from the block so you can reach the valve better (the drain nut is in a kind of recess up there).
The part number that fits this is: F-106NA Valve and the Adaptor is ADP106.
wkohler
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Post by wkohler »

I used a 5 gallon bucket. Didn't spill a drop, either...from when I drained the block.
davintosh
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Post by davintosh »

Coldswede wrote:Small and cheap ($6.95), plastic childrens wading pool. Blue with dolphins on it. It even catches about 95% of the coolant out of the block drain!
Bonus that when it's not being used to catch coolant you can fill it with water & sit in it to beat the Florida heat! ;)
ahendra
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Location: Redmond, WA

Post by ahendra »

For reference the part# for the aluminium crush washer for the block drain plug is 07-11-9-963-200.
Bmachine
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Joined: Dec 31, 2018 4:27 PM
Location: Northern California

Re:

Post by Bmachine »

vinceg101 wrote: Aug 15, 2011 9:39 PM
528elover wrote:
Frybrid 524td wrote:This is what I installed: Autometer adaptor 2267 and a PN 4112T63 from McMaster-Carr. I'll just screw in an 1/8" hose barb with a hose on it the next time I have to drain the block. I also put a similar setup in the bottom of my oil filter housing (M12 x 1.5 to 1/8" NPT). Obviously, this necessitates a skid plate though.
Thanks! This is very helpful. Is there any reason why a fumoto valve wouldn't work for this application also?

Image
This is working quite well for the block drain in the M535; I put one in back in May and it sure beats having hot coolant rain all over you when you're flushing a block:
Image

Just hook up a length of neoprene hose to the nipple and run it down to pan/bucket/container then open the valve. Works like a dream. It works best with the extender adapter; this will push the valve out away from the block so you can reach the valve better (the drain nut is in a kind of recess up there).
The part number that fits this is: F-106NA Valve and the Adaptor is ADP106.
I realize this thread is 11 years old but in the off chance that you (or someone else who has done this) are still on the board, may I ask how you managed to tighten the Fumoto valve correctly? You are supposed to only tighten the main body of the valve with a 19mm wrench. But that body only has 2 sides available for a wrench to grab onto and only from one side since the other side has the release lever. Add to that the fact that it is crazy hard to get any tool in that location to begin with and I don’t see how you could tighten that to the recomended 18ft/lb

Apart from that, this seems like an awesome idea.

Thank you
RonW
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Re: Re:

Post by RonW »

Bmachine wrote: May 21, 2022 1:16 AMAdd to that the fact that it is crazy hard to get any tool in that location to begin with and I don’t see how you could tighten that to the recomended 18ft/lb
I know the chart on their web site says 18 lb-ft, but in my experience you'll rip it apart at far less than that - the brass thread will shear right off.

It comes with a non-metallic crush washer, which you have to use. The correct procedure is to hand tighten it, then turn it another quarter turn. It will seem like that's not nearly enough, but all three of my cars have a valve like that for draining the oil, and none of them have come off yet.
vinceg101
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Re: Re:

Post by vinceg101 »

RonW wrote: May 21, 2022 1:43 AM
Bmachine wrote: May 21, 2022 1:16 AMAdd to that the fact that it is crazy hard to get any tool in that location to begin with and I don’t see how you could tighten that to the recomended 18ft/lb
I know the chart on their web site says 18 lb-ft, but in my experience you'll rip it apart at far less than that - the brass thread will shear right off.

It comes with a non-metallic crush washer, which you have to use. The correct procedure is to hand tighten it, then turn it another quarter turn. It will seem like that's not nearly enough, but all three of my cars have a valve like that for draining the oil, and none of them have come off yet.
^^^What Roy said.

When I first installed this valve I didn't have any real difficulty installing it. As Roy stated, with teflon tape and a crush washer, I never had any issues. After I pulled the engine and refinished it all, I put the valve back on before the block went back in (so naturally it was easier to install) in the same procedure. That was 5 years ago with no problems since.
If I recall, I just used standard minimal wrench and hand tightening methods both times.
The valves are great and the perfect way to handle what is normally a messy task; it was worth the cost and effort to install.
Bmachine
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Joined: Dec 31, 2018 4:27 PM
Location: Northern California

Re: Coolant drain

Post by Bmachine »

Thank you very much for that great info, Vince and Ron
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