Galahad wrote: ↑Sep 26, 2022 1:39 PM
Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I believe you can swap the output flange on the transmission but you'll need someone else to confirm that.
Are you having any issues with revshift guibo?
So did you have to lengthen the shaft?
Would it be totally insane to run two guibo’s? The original and the revshift. That way I might not hav to lengthen and I’ll maintain the softness of oem guibo. Seems like a ridiculous idea. But maybe not.
stubble88 wrote: ↑Sep 26, 2022 3:45 PM
So now the only options are swapping the output flange (not verified). Or cutting off flange from e28 shaft and welding on an e36 76mm flange.
You might be able to use the front half of an E36 driveshaft. The D/S splines might match up. Might, I don't know.
Galahad wrote: ↑Sep 26, 2022 1:39 PM
Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I believe you can swap the output flange on the transmission but you'll need someone else to confirm that.
Are you having any issues with revshift guibo?
So did you have to lengthen the shaft?
Would it be totally insane to run two guibo’s? The original and the revshift. That way I might not hav to lengthen and I’ll maintain the softness of oem guibo. Seems like a ridiculous idea. But maybe not.
stubble88 wrote: ↑Sep 26, 2022 2:00 PM
Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I've heard that this is a tricky one to run with success.
Basically you need hard/solid drivetrain mounts and bushings everywhere. Then you have to measure to make sure all the components align correctly.
Even after all that it's going to be tough on the trans and the diff. IMO this is one spot that should be left to a racecar-only application.
Replying to both:
I did not need to extend my driveshaft, although there's very little spline engagement in the middle. I'm planning on making a set of guibo spacers or something when I get a lathe similar to the double guibo idea to take up space. The issue with that is you don't have the nose of the driveshaft on the peg in the end of the transmission and I don't know what that would do to the system.
I have some currently undiagnosed drivetrain vibration around 30mph but there's other things higher up on the "fix me" list. I have the garagistic aluminum motor mounts because I hate myself, so no worries on the motor or transmission shifting around but I don't know how good the alignment is. It's possible the guibo is the issue.
I'm probably going to swap out for a standard large guibo and one of these converters (which I only just remembered existed): https://catuned.com/shop#!/p/313283004/
Galahad wrote: ↑Sep 26, 2022 1:39 PM
Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I believe you can swap the output flange on the transmission but you'll need someone else to confirm that.
Are you having any issues with revshift guibo?
So did you have to lengthen the shaft?
Would it be totally insane to run two guibo’s? The original and the revshift. That way I might not hav to lengthen and I’ll maintain the softness of oem guibo. Seems like a ridiculous idea. But maybe not.
stubble88 wrote: ↑Sep 26, 2022 2:00 PM
Revshift sells a conversion guibo that I used, unfortunately it's poly so not everyone will want it.
I've heard that this is a tricky one to run with success.
Basically you need hard/solid drivetrain mounts and bushings everywhere. Then you have to measure to make sure all the components align correctly.
Even after all that it's going to be tough on the trans and the diff. IMO this is one spot that should be left to a racecar-only application.
Replying to both:
I did not need to extend my driveshaft, although there's very little spline engagement in the middle. I'm planning on making a set of guibo spacers or something when I get a lathe similar to the double guibo idea to take up space. The issue with that is you don't have the nose of the driveshaft on the peg in the end of the transmission and I don't know what that would do to the system.
I have some currently undiagnosed drivetrain vibration around 30mph but there's other things higher up on the "fix me" list. I have the garagistic aluminum motor mounts because I hate myself, so no worries on the motor or transmission shifting around but I don't know how good the alignment is. It's possible the guibo is the issue.
I'm probably going to swap out for a standard large guibo and one of these converters (which I only just remembered existed): https://catuned.com/shop#!/p/313283004/
Oh. Well there we go. I guess I can just do this. They need to adjust their wording on this so that the search engine can pick it up. I’ve been looking like crazy.
I still might just swap the output flange and add some length to the shaft. Keeping things simple.
Galahad wrote: ↑Sep 26, 2022 9:40 PM
I'm probably going to swap out for a standard large guibo and one of these converters (which I only just remembered existed): https://catuned.com/shop#!/p/313283004/
Looks like a good solution. Let us know if it solves your vibration issue.
Anyone having issues with the length of the shifter arm? Mine needs to lengthen about 25mm so it sits centered in the hole. It’s a e36 arm. Trying to find info on different arm lengths e28, e34 etc. havnt found anything.
stubble88 wrote: ↑Sep 27, 2022 10:49 AM
Anyone having issues with the length of the shifter arm? Mine needs to lengthen about 25mm so it sits centered in the hole. It’s a e36 arm. Trying to find info on different arm lengths e28, e34 etc. havnt found anything.
I have one of the garagistic adjustable DSSRs, which appear to be NLA - they're selling "weld it yourself" kits now. I need to remake the center section, it's still a bit too short at the long end. I think I saw something on r3v about lengthening someone's existing shifter arm and carrier plate that seemed reasonable. I'd be tempted to cut the existing one, stick the ends into a tube, and fill it with epoxy but I don't know how well that would hold up.
Galahad wrote: ↑Sep 27, 2022 11:17 AM
I'd be tempted to cut the existing one, stick the ends into a tube, and fill it with epoxy but I don't know how well that would hold up.
I'd probably want to thru bolt it, even if with small bolts, 2 on either side, but then doing the epoxy I bet would work.
stubble88 wrote: ↑Sep 29, 2022 3:39 PM
Well. The 535 has that entire power steering cooling contraption with hoses going all over the place. Not sure if 528 has that.
Nope the etas have a grand total of three hoses and zero coolers
Galahad wrote: ↑Sep 27, 2022 11:17 AM
I'd be tempted to cut the existing one, stick the ends into a tube, and fill it with epoxy but I don't know how well that would hold up.
I'd probably want to thru bolt it, even if with small bolts, 2 on either side, but then doing the epoxy I bet would work.
I should have took pics. But I cut it then double bolted both ends with 3sided aluminum. I grooved one side of the bolt holes so I can adjust it. Then cranked the nuts down to hold. I also elongated the other shifter rod and welded that together with a sleeve. About 22mm of length added to both. It now sits perfectly in the center.
Possible change of plans.
Friend has a couple m30b35’s I can choose from. This swap has a couple benefits over the m50.
208hp
Possibly no smog issues here in CA
More original to the car seeing it’s a m30
Compression
Torque curve etc..