WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

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chrisherrel
Posts: 5
Joined: Mar 16, 2021 9:35 AM
Location: Ohio

WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by chrisherrel »

Hey all, I know this might not be the greatest first post, but I'm here searching for a driver-quality manual transmission E24 or E28. I've been searching through this forum, bigcoupe.com, r3vlimited (occasionally has the rare non-E30 posted), craigslist, facebook market, ebay, and pretty much everywhere else on the internet to find one. The few that have come up I have missed out on by a few days.

I bought my E30 last year on r3vlimited and found the experience of buying from the forum a way to trust that the seller appreciates what the car is and has probably taken good care of it.

I'm located in Cleveland, Ohio, but am willing to drive up to 6 hours for the right car or pay to have it shipped. I'm currently selling my E61 because I miss shifting my own gears and, from what I can tell, the M30 is more reliable than the later N54. As mentioned in the subject of the post, my budget is in the $7,000-$8,000 range. If anyone has a lead on one or a car that meets this description, I'd be thrilled to hear about it.

Thanks!
1985mb
Posts: 13
Joined: Mar 05, 2014 2:05 PM
Location: NYC

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by 1985mb »

Not exactly what you asked for but since you mentioned swapping out of your E61 into something else

https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/cto/d/w ... 06057.html

The e24/28 market is kinda crazy rn, I'm afraid to say you (and me) may have missed the boat on these. Ofc you might get lucky with some little ol' lady who has never heard of BaT and prices their car off some outdated book value before the surge in prices began.
chrisherrel
Posts: 5
Joined: Mar 16, 2021 9:35 AM
Location: Ohio

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by chrisherrel »

The e34s are very handsome cars and can't beat a wagon...

I was hoping I'd be able to get in on an E24/28 before they went totally nuts (like when I got my E30) but it looks like I'll have to get lucky and/or just be ready to jump.

The BaT effect is really something huh...
Spen
Posts: 1252
Joined: Feb 24, 2011 12:38 AM
Location: Seattle, WA, USA

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by Spen »

The money supply going up 30x since early 80s I'm sure is unrelated to prices and its all BaT's Bernaysesque marketing genius)

N54 issues if you want to know what I think:

Turbos probably last 100k on average with perhaps some nice rattling for last 10 20k. 30ff underboost codes and etc. Not a totally easy job to replace them time wise. Figure 150 to 200 in gaskets and oil change and hanging the engine like a pendulum. Put a jack under the transmission to support it in case it decides to splatter you.

Index 12 injectors. 11 may be okish. When index 10 and previous revisions go wrong somehow, leak or go bad, bumpy idle, long fuelley crank cold start, check engine sometimes, etc. "It's just got a vacuum leak bro. I didn't have time to fix it yet bro only $5 part lol." When they go really bad put a rag over the injector when you loosen the hard fuel hose. Pull the coil packs too the gas will eat the booty. Yum. Special tool required for professional installation or go cowboy style. Your call. Professional plus seal and those claw look cushion things which are probably a total waste. New claw thing looks same as old one.

Hpfp common acronym. Fuel pump. Costly.

Valve cover. Integrated pcv stuff inside. External replacement of pcv thing possible. Don't bother replacing the gasket more than once, if you happen do the job for money, just tell the customer to cough up for a whole cover or go somewhere else. Uro cover is probably fine. Cheaper than oem.

Filter housing oil leak and cooler leak. If left long enough will eat upper radiator hose o ring huge swollen son of a bleep must replace hose or inner hose o ring minimum if swollen. Kibi gaskets I think are oem. I'd stick w oem.

If really left long enough pouring oil, belt slips off, battery light on, wraps around crank sucks into engine, possibly breaks some timing guides, chop suey ensuey after "just replaced the belt bro it's all good", oil pickup orifice gets Klaus Schwab anal swab and you won't be happy with those schwabens when you gotta yank the subframe (light aluminum tho!) right after you did the turbos and cheaped out on the oil leaks because your belt replacement was half ass and the real job now is to gut the subframe and pick out the belt shavings in pickup. Bonus if you do the valve cover for the last bits but pan only is fine. Special tool reqd for front seal.

Thermostat to cyl head hose. Just replace it. Metal flange. Uro hose is good. I think rein makes too. That plastic is a time bomb and will leave your ass for dead at the worst possible time in tearful desperation.

Water pump, thermostat and tank.
Pump dies slowly
Thermostat probably lasts but you take it off so just replace it or cheap out it probably never dies but nobody tests it longer than 1 pump change "I betcha".
Tank cracks but doesn't seem to burst. Easy and fun to see how much coolant u can move from tank to new tank. It's like a fun litte game that sets you back the better part of 100 clams and ticking.

Walnut blast. A messy job it can certainly be if you have a little tiny mistake but I don't because I'm so perfect and I'm the best internet mechanic ever, I even use weird sounding European tools and insist on pronouncing them "right" even though I don't speak the language at all. Ideally not done in a hard drive recovery clean room. Special tool kit suggested and a vacuum.

Maybe eventually boost diverters, charge pipe, and you'll probably already have fixed the oil pan leak from the broke aluminum bolts that wiggle out loke loose teeth in your gums after grinding your teeth thinking about the next credit card application to fix your N54.

If you can live with that, replacing some vacuum lines, and a 4 hour alternator job by the book worth a small fortune, a belt that is tight as a Scotsmans wallet (I'm part scotch Irish I heard so I can say that, right?) to get out including relocating a duct, I'd say keep the E61 535i.

Get an M30 80s bmw if you wanna pull the head and do the oil leaks 1 time every 30 years and change the oil and filter, drive it and enjoy it and the "neat little add on" actually improves the car because it isn't going backwards like the N54.

Just kidding about in general, but I do like the N54 and of course the fine bmws of the 80s.
1985mb
Posts: 13
Joined: Mar 05, 2014 2:05 PM
Location: NYC

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by 1985mb »

chrisherrel wrote: Mar 16, 2021 5:48 PM The e34s are very handsome cars and can't beat a wagon...

I was hoping I'd be able to get in on an E24/28 before they went totally nuts (like when I got my E30) but it looks like I'll have to get lucky and/or just be ready to jump.

The BaT effect is really something huh...
It's crazy... people are paying IMO silly money for like etas and diesels... I'm like why are you even buying an E28 or similar BMW in the first place?
chrisherrel
Posts: 5
Joined: Mar 16, 2021 9:35 AM
Location: Ohio

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by chrisherrel »

Spen wrote: Mar 17, 2021 5:33 AM The money supply going up 30x since early 80s I'm sure is unrelated to prices and its all BaT's Bernaysesque marketing genius)

N54 issues if you want to know what I think:

Turbos probably last 100k on average with perhaps some nice rattling for last 10 20k. 30ff underboost codes and etc. Not a totally easy job to replace them time wise. Figure 150 to 200 in gaskets and oil change and hanging the engine like a pendulum. Put a jack under the transmission to support it in case it decides to splatter you.

Index 12 injectors. 11 may be okish. When index 10 and previous revisions go wrong somehow, leak or go bad, bumpy idle, long fuelley crank cold start, check engine sometimes, etc. "It's just got a vacuum leak bro. I didn't have time to fix it yet bro only $5 part lol." When they go really bad put a rag over the injector when you loosen the hard fuel hose. Pull the coil packs too the gas will eat the booty. Yum. Special tool required for professional installation or go cowboy style. Your call. Professional plus seal and those claw look cushion things which are probably a total waste. New claw thing looks same as old one.

Hpfp common acronym. Fuel pump. Costly.

Valve cover. Integrated pcv stuff inside. External replacement of pcv thing possible. Don't bother replacing the gasket more than once, if you happen do the job for money, just tell the customer to cough up for a whole cover or go somewhere else. Uro cover is probably fine. Cheaper than oem.

Filter housing oil leak and cooler leak. If left long enough will eat upper radiator hose o ring huge swollen son of a bleep must replace hose or inner hose o ring minimum if swollen. Kibi gaskets I think are oem. I'd stick w oem.

If really left long enough pouring oil, belt slips off, battery light on, wraps around crank sucks into engine, possibly breaks some timing guides, chop suey ensuey after "just replaced the belt bro it's all good", oil pickup orifice gets Klaus Schwab anal swab and you won't be happy with those schwabens when you gotta yank the subframe (light aluminum tho!) right after you did the turbos and cheaped out on the oil leaks because your belt replacement was half ass and the real job now is to gut the subframe and pick out the belt shavings in pickup. Bonus if you do the valve cover for the last bits but pan only is fine. Special tool reqd for front seal.

Thermostat to cyl head hose. Just replace it. Metal flange. Uro hose is good. I think rein makes too. That plastic is a time bomb and will leave your ass for dead at the worst possible time in tearful desperation.

Water pump, thermostat and tank.
Pump dies slowly
Thermostat probably lasts but you take it off so just replace it or cheap out it probably never dies but nobody tests it longer than 1 pump change "I betcha".
Tank cracks but doesn't seem to burst. Easy and fun to see how much coolant u can move from tank to new tank. It's like a fun litte game that sets you back the better part of 100 clams and ticking.

Walnut blast. A messy job it can certainly be if you have a little tiny mistake but I don't because I'm so perfect and I'm the best internet mechanic ever, I even use weird sounding European tools and insist on pronouncing them "right" even though I don't speak the language at all. Ideally not done in a hard drive recovery clean room. Special tool kit suggested and a vacuum.

Maybe eventually boost diverters, charge pipe, and you'll probably already have fixed the oil pan leak from the broke aluminum bolts that wiggle out loke loose teeth in your gums after grinding your teeth thinking about the next credit card application to fix your N54.

If you can live with that, replacing some vacuum lines, and a 4 hour alternator job by the book worth a small fortune, a belt that is tight as a Scotsmans wallet (I'm part scotch Irish I heard so I can say that, right?) to get out including relocating a duct, I'd say keep the E61 535i.

Get an M30 80s bmw if you wanna pull the head and do the oil leaks 1 time every 30 years and change the oil and filter, drive it and enjoy it and the "neat little add on" actually improves the car because it isn't going backwards like the N54.

Just kidding about in general, but I do like the N54 and of course the fine bmws of the 80s.
This speaks to my soul, thank you. After incurring many of these expenses myself, replacing the oil filter housing gasket (an intake-out job however you slice it) was where I've drawn the line. The options were either a grand at the dealer or $12 for the gasket and another $50-100 more for Torx tools and more wires to unplug than are in my entire E30. After finishing the job with no more leaks I can safely say I made the wrong choice for my sanity going DIY. Coils were one of the first things to go when I took ownership.

As beautiful as the new longroof is, I think I've lived out my flirtation with the N54 for long enough (although that smooth 300hp/300ft.lbs is damn nice). Just finished a cylinder head job on my M20, so I've got some confidence on doing the same once the time comes for its bigger brother.
BillW in StL
Posts: 167
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 1:00 PM
Location: Midwest
Contact:

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by BillW in StL »

It is the above discussion that makes we want to keep my 80s BMWs. I have more tools than money.
chrisherrel
Posts: 5
Joined: Mar 16, 2021 9:35 AM
Location: Ohio

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by chrisherrel »

BillW in StL wrote: Mar 17, 2021 5:39 PM It is the above discussion that makes we want to keep my 80s BMWs. I have more tools than money.
And what makes me want to get the E30 a contemporary for the garage bay next to it!
chrisherrel
Posts: 5
Joined: Mar 16, 2021 9:35 AM
Location: Ohio

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by chrisherrel »

1985mb wrote: Mar 17, 2021 1:26 PM
chrisherrel wrote: Mar 16, 2021 5:48 PM The e34s are very handsome cars and can't beat a wagon...

I was hoping I'd be able to get in on an E24/28 before they went totally nuts (like when I got my E30) but it looks like I'll have to get lucky and/or just be ready to jump.

The BaT effect is really something huh...
It's crazy... people are paying IMO silly money for like etas and diesels... I'm like why are you even buying an E28 or similar BMW in the first place?
Amen!!
Spen
Posts: 1252
Joined: Feb 24, 2011 12:38 AM
Location: Seattle, WA, USA

Re: WTB M30-Powered, Manual E28 or E24. budget 7-8k

Post by Spen »

chrisherrel wrote: Mar 17, 2021 5:26 PM
Spen wrote: Mar 17, 2021 5:33 AM The money supply going up 30x since early 80s I'm sure is unrelated to prices and its all BaT's Bernaysesque marketing genius)

N54 issues if you want to know what I think:

Turbos probably last 100k on average with perhaps some nice rattling for last 10 20k. 30ff underboost codes and etc. Not a totally easy job to replace them time wise. Figure 150 to 200 in gaskets and oil change and hanging the engine like a pendulum. Put a jack under the transmission to support it in case it decides to splatter you.

Index 12 injectors. 11 may be okish. When index 10 and previous revisions go wrong somehow, leak or go bad, bumpy idle, long fuelley crank cold start, check engine sometimes, etc. "It's just got a vacuum leak bro. I didn't have time to fix it yet bro only $5 part lol." When they go really bad put a rag over the injector when you loosen the hard fuel hose. Pull the coil packs too the gas will eat the booty. Yum. Special tool required for professional installation or go cowboy style. Your call. Professional plus seal and those claw look cushion things which are probably a total waste. New claw thing looks same as old one.

Hpfp common acronym. Fuel pump. Costly.

Valve cover. Integrated pcv stuff inside. External replacement of pcv thing possible. Don't bother replacing the gasket more than once, if you happen do the job for money, just tell the customer to cough up for a whole cover or go somewhere else. Uro cover is probably fine. Cheaper than oem.

Filter housing oil leak and cooler leak. If left long enough will eat upper radiator hose o ring huge swollen son of a bleep must replace hose or inner hose o ring minimum if swollen. Kibi gaskets I think are oem. I'd stick w oem.

If really left long enough pouring oil, belt slips off, battery light on, wraps around crank sucks into engine, possibly breaks some timing guides, chop suey ensuey after "just replaced the belt bro it's all good", oil pickup orifice gets Klaus Schwab anal swab and you won't be happy with those schwabens when you gotta yank the subframe (light aluminum tho!) right after you did the turbos and cheaped out on the oil leaks because your belt replacement was half ass and the real job now is to gut the subframe and pick out the belt shavings in pickup. Bonus if you do the valve cover for the last bits but pan only is fine. Special tool reqd for front seal.

Thermostat to cyl head hose. Just replace it. Metal flange. Uro hose is good. I think rein makes too. That plastic is a time bomb and will leave your ass for dead at the worst possible time in tearful desperation.

Water pump, thermostat and tank.
Pump dies slowly
Thermostat probably lasts but you take it off so just replace it or cheap out it probably never dies but nobody tests it longer than 1 pump change "I betcha".
Tank cracks but doesn't seem to burst. Easy and fun to see how much coolant u can move from tank to new tank. It's like a fun litte game that sets you back the better part of 100 clams and ticking.

Walnut blast. A messy job it can certainly be if you have a little tiny mistake but I don't because I'm so perfect and I'm the best internet mechanic ever, I even use weird sounding European tools and insist on pronouncing them "right" even though I don't speak the language at all. Ideally not done in a hard drive recovery clean room. Special tool kit suggested and a vacuum.

Maybe eventually boost diverters, charge pipe, and you'll probably already have fixed the oil pan leak from the broke aluminum bolts that wiggle out loke loose teeth in your gums after grinding your teeth thinking about the next credit card application to fix your N54.

If you can live with that, replacing some vacuum lines, and a 4 hour alternator job by the book worth a small fortune, a belt that is tight as a Scotsmans wallet (I'm part scotch Irish I heard so I can say that, right?) to get out including relocating a duct, I'd say keep the E61 535i.

Get an M30 80s bmw if you wanna pull the head and do the oil leaks 1 time every 30 years and change the oil and filter, drive it and enjoy it and the "neat little add on" actually improves the car because it isn't going backwards like the N54.

Just kidding about in general, but I do like the N54 and of course the fine bmws of the 80s.
This speaks to my soul, thank you. After incurring many of these expenses myself, replacing the oil filter housing gasket (an intake-out job however you slice it) was where I've drawn the line. The options were either a grand at the dealer or $12 for the gasket and another $50-100 more for Torx tools and more wires to unplug than are in my entire E30. After finishing the job with no more leaks I can safely say I made the wrong choice for my sanity going DIY. Coils were one of the first things to go when I took ownership.

As beautiful as the new longroof is, I think I've lived out my flirtation with the N54 for long enough (although that smooth 300hp/300ft.lbs is damn nice). Just finished a cylinder head job on my M20, so I've got some confidence on doing the same once the time comes for its bigger brother.
After you do a few and then a few dozen N54 filter housings you can get the intake out in about 20 minutes if you're cooking with gas. The valve cover on N54 is also easier than N52 due to that eccentric shaft.

The biggest concerns are the turbos, Hpfp, and injectors. And the labor involved in the turd-bos. The rest is tolerable. The M30 takes some time to work on but I'll say just do the whole leaks including pan and lower cover chain and guides and it will be all good for a long while.

Put the lower cover on before the oil pan.

I suggest the crank hub holder. Saves time and you own a tool.
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