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Getrag 280 to 265 in an M5

 
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Devinder



Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Location: Berkeley, CA

PostPosted: Feb 19, 2009 7:01 PM    Post subject: Getrag 280 to 265 in an M5 Reply with quote

This is for future reference for anyone working on an M5 clutch or transmission. I went into my M5 to do a clutch job and it turned into a transmission swap. I was going to change the clutch and install a JB Racing flywheel, but getting the Getrag 280 out was such a bitch that I decided to put in a Getrag 265 instead of the 280.

The M5 has a specific issue with the headers. The headers go all the way under the car to the middle of the transmission so it's impossible to use a transmission jack on the 280. I had to modify my transmission jack and still couldn't strap the transmission to it tightly. In addition to this, I'm sure everyone knows about the crazy Torx bolts. I have 2 lifts and a full telescoping, tilting, swiveling transmission jack, but even with those tools, it was such a pain that I decided right there the Getrag 280 is not going back in.

Here is a picture of the JB Racing flywheel and new clutch.




The bell housing has to come from a 1985 535i. These are available new from BMW for about $250 if you can't find a used one. I use an input shaft to align the clutch because the plastic tool has too much play in it. The separate bell housing makes it more difficult to reposition the clutch if the transmission doesn't go it. So, I made sure the alignment was perfect using the input shaft -- it fits much better than the plastic tool. You have to install the slave cylinder to hold the throwout bearing in-place. After the transmission is in there, you have to remove the slave cylinder to tighten the upper nut. One last check on the alignment:



The sensors fit but they are "clocked" differently than on the Getrag 280. Because of this, the heat shield installs with different holes. The heat shield has three holes in it and you have to use a different set of holes to install on the Getrag 265.



There is a lot of conflicting information out there about the compatibility of a Getrag 265 and a Getrag 280. I measured both and the 265 is about 6mm longer at the output flange and about 10mm longer at the selector shaft. The standard E28 M5 driveshaft will work with the 265. The center bearing has room to move because the mounting bolts are in slots.

The aluminum shift arm will not fit on a stock 265 because that transmission is designed to work with the sheet metal shift arm. One option is to install all the shifting parts from a 1985 535i. I like the aluminum shift arm so I decided to adapt the transmission to work with it. The E30 M3 has adapter parts (25 11 2 225 369, about $10) for installing the aluminum shift arm to a Getrag 265. The problem with this part on an E28 M5 is that it uses a special length shift arm. I wanted to keep all the E28 M5 shifting parts, so I moved the mount point to the correct location. If you cut 27mm off the "ears" on a Getrag 265, it puts the shift arm in the correct location relative to the selector shaft:



The easy way to do this is by drilling the holes deeper before cutting off the ears, that way, you just need to tap it for M8x1.25 and everything lines up.



With the "bow" installed, the aluminum shift arm will fit in there and the pin (25 11 2 225 344, about $10) with an M8 nut will hold it in place. It's best to install the bow with pin and nut on the end of the shift arm and then bolt the bow to the ears after the transmission is installed.



Here is a shot of the shifter. One other minor change is the location of the reverse switch. The switch is on the other side of the transmission so you have to re-route the reverse light wires.



I tried several different transmission mounts including the M3 mount, and it looks like you have to use the 1985 535i crossmember and specific (angled) rubber mounts that go with it.

I'll have driving impressions later.
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Kyle in NO



Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Location: Nasty Orleans------> Batten-Rooehjch

PostPosted: Feb 19, 2009 8:57 PM    Post subject: Reply with quote

The M3 mount you have there is nice, but your idea of cutting the ears down to install it is great! If I ever swap to a G265, this is the route I will take. Thanks for doing the writeup! This should be a sticky.

Last edited by Kyle in NO on Feb 20, 2009 10:36 PM; edited 1 time in total
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Tucker



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Location: Los Osos, CA

PostPosted: Feb 19, 2009 9:06 PM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good writeup!
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wkohler



Joined: 05 Oct 2006
Location: Northern Mexico

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 1:39 AM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kyle in NO wrote:
The M3 mount you have there is great, but your idea of cutting the ears down to install it is great! If I ever swap to a G265, this is the route I will take. Thanks for doing the writeup! This should be a sticky.


Mos Def. What? Is that not cool?

The quality of the writeup is amazing. I never in a million years would have thought about cutting those ears. Obviously, Shawn D. didn't either. At least if he did, he didn't mention it.

That's the main reason I didn't stick a G265 in my car when my 260 bit the dust. I do not like that sheetmetal console.
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Mark in Toronto



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
Location: Toronto

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 9:20 AM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent write-up! Thanks for taking the time to document the swap.
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johnnye23



Joined: 27 Sep 2006

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 9:23 AM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great writeup and pictures.Thanks Wink
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bmwcarl



Joined: 26 Jul 2007

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 11:39 AM    Post subject: Reply with quote

what are you going to do with your old 280?
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Matt



Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Location: Fargo

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 1:21 PM    Post subject: Reply with quote

You replaced a 280 with a 265 because the exhaust was in the way?

I've R&R'd the M5 headers a bunch. It's way easier than dropping a transmission.

I figure BMW used the 280 for a reason. Seems weird to throw in a 265 unless you can't afford not to..

Good info for those that want to take this route though.
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Shawn D.
Beamter
Beamter


Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Location: Alpharetta, GA

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 1:25 PM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent write-up, Devinder!

wkohler wrote:
I never in a million years would have thought about cutting those ears. Obviously, Shawn D. didn't either. At least if he did, he didn't mention it.

Note that I had to cut about 2-3/4" out of the console. Thus, shortening the bosses 27mm would have still required shortening the console by 1-3/4".
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alpinacsi



Joined: 10 May 2007
Location: Atlanta GA

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 4:22 PM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, just so I can get this straight:

1) you need the e30 mount adapter piece so it can mount to the 27mm shortened tranny mount ears.

2) the e24/e28 M5/M6 specific shifter arm (about $35 and different than the std e24/e28 alum arm or the e30's).

3) the straight selector rod from the M5/M6 which is the same as the e12, e23, e24 and e28 with the sheetmetal console. (the e28 with the alum console uses the longer bent rod)

I think I am going to change my sheet metal console before I get it all installed.
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Devinder



Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Location: Berkeley, CA

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 5:13 PM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys!

Quote:
I never in a million years would have thought about cutting those ears. Obviously, Shawn D. didn't either. At least if he did, he didn't mention it.

This thought comes easier after looking at many 265s with ears already broken off. Note, that my write-up is for going from a 280 to a 265. If you're starting with a 260, then all bets are off. There are two separate dimensions to match. The location of the selector shaft and location of the shift arm. In the case of the 280, the selector shaft is in the same location (approximately) as a 265, so I can use the stock shift rod. All I had to do was put the shift arm in the correct location relative to the selector shaft. Taking 27mm of the ears will do that. I have no idea what the any of these dimensions are on a 260.

Quote:
You replaced a 280 with a 265 because the exhaust was in the way?
I've R&R'd the M5 headers a bunch. It's way easier than dropping a transmission.
I figure BMW used the 280 for a reason. Seems weird to throw in a 265 unless you can't afford not to..
Good info for those that want to take this route though.


The exhaust was one reason. I plan on going back in there when I change my engine so I didn't want to deal with a one-piece transmission again. The 265 is a much better transmission. No question about it. I cant speak to why BMW didn't use the 265 in every car since 1980.

It is quiter and the shifting is tighter. In this last week, I've been surprised by how much quieter this tranmission is. The 280 had 150k miles on it and it didn't have any problems but now it's obvious that the 280 was much louder. I've had a 265 in my CS for years and I used Carl Nelson's advice and put in 1qt of Redline MTL and 0.7qt of 80wt gear oil.

I know people will talk a lot about gear ratios. The only difference is in 1st and 2nd. I don't plan on using 1st gear at the track. Next time I go I'll see how much the difference in the 2nd gear ratio matters.

Quote:
Ok, just so I can get this straight:

1) you need the e30 mount adapter piece so it can mount to the 27mm shortened tranny mount ears.

2) the e24/e28 M5/M6 specific shifter arm (about $35 and different than the std e24/e28 alum arm or the e30's).

3) the straight selector rod from the M5/M6 which is the same as the e12, e23, e24 and e28 with the sheetmetal console. (the e28 with the alum console uses the longer bent rod)

I think I am going to change my sheet metal console before I get it all installed.


Are you talking about a non-M5 now? If so, then you need the proper dirveshaft too.

Devinder


Last edited by Devinder on Feb 20, 2009 7:19 PM; edited 1 time in total
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alpinacsi



Joined: 10 May 2007
Location: Atlanta GA

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 5:46 PM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Devinder wrote:

Are you talking about a non-M5 now? If so, then you need the proper dirveshaft too.

Devinder


Just talking about converting a 265 equiped e24/e28 with sheet metal console to the better alum style.

Thanks. All that you have said sounds good and as you have mentioned, the ears are prone to damage anyway.
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Devinder



Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Location: Berkeley, CA

PostPosted: Feb 20, 2009 7:08 PM    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Just talking about converting a 265 equiped e24/e28 with sheet metal console to the better alum style.

Thanks. All that you have said sounds good and as you have mentioned, the ears are prone to damage anyway.


In that case, you still need to get the pin and nut to go with the E30 M3 bow piece. The "pin" is a special bolt with a 10mm diameter shank and 8mm thread. I also don't think the E12 and E28 shift rods are the same. I'm not sure about this.
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Rich Euro M5



Joined: 10 Mar 2006

PostPosted: Feb 21, 2009 9:48 AM    Post subject: Reply with quote

alpinacsi wrote:
Ok, just so I can get this straight:

3) the straight selector rod from the M5/M6 which is the same as the e12, e23, e24 and e28 with the sheetmetal console. (the e28 with the alum console uses the longer bent rod)



This statement isn't 100% accurate as it pertains to the E28 chassis. There are two different M30 engined E28s which utilize a sheet metal shift console, the 533i with the G260/5 and the '85 535i with the G265. The shift consoles and shift rods are different lengths between these two transmission types.

The '85 535i w/G265 and the M5 w/G280 use the same shift rod. I can't speak for the older BMWs that Paul has mentioned.

Rich
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